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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Harpyje
Via a rib in the left part of the massif into the cave and along the crack up. Rock Climbing
3
Harpyje
From NW via the corner to a rib and via it up. Rock Climbing
4+
Lupen
In the left part of the massif via a notch to the pulpit and over the overhang along the… Rock Climbing
2+
Lupen
In the left part of the massif via a chimney up. Rock Climbing
4+
Lupen
In the left part of the massif via a small wall to a ledge, over the overhang (bolt… Rock Climbing
5
Harpyje
Via the crack left of the 'Grey Rat' route to the platform and right along the wall (bolt… Rock Climbing
6
Harpyje
Along the curved edge (bolt hanger) under the overhang, over it (ring) up. Rock Climbing
2+
Harpyje
In the central part of the massif via the corner of the 'Fate of Fínea' route to a ledge… Rock Climbing
3
Masiv pod Harpyjí
Via the corner in the left part of the massif up. Rock Climbing
5+
Harpyje
Center of the wall in the left part of the massif (bolt hanger) to a rib, via it to a… Rock Climbing
3
Harpyje
In the right part of the massif via a chimney briefly to a ledge and by another chimney… Rock Climbing
4+
Harpyje
Via the corner in the left part of the massif to a small platform and left to a large… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Masiv pod Harpyjí
In the left part of the wall, directly through the hole and ring to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Masiv pod Harpyjí
In the left part of the massif along the edge (bolt hanger) and right along the wall up. Rock Climbing
5
Masiv pod Harpyjí
In the central part of the massif along a short crack to a hole (bolt hanger), via the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Masiv pod Harpyjí
In the right part of the massif via the wall (bolt hanger) and through the holes up. Rock Climbing
3
Kopí
Along the plateau edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Kopí
Along the valley edge to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Kopí
From the plateau side to the ledge and right to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Malá kovadlina
Through the middle of the valley wall over the bolt/ring to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Vozová hradba
In the left part of the left half of the wall to the bolt/ring. Up to the balcony and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Malá kovadlina
To the right in the valley wall over the overhang to the bolt/ring, then up the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Vozová hradba
In the right part of the left half of the wall, via the rib to the left and up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Malá kovadlina
Via the V-shaped edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Vozová hradba
Via the chimney between the "Ústí Wall" and this massif to the ledge and left over the… Rock Climbing
2
Malá kovadlina
In the left part of the plateau wall to the ledge and via the sloping wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Vozová hradba
To the left of the Dividing Chimney, ascend via the rib to the 1st bolt/ring on the… Rock Climbing
2+
Vozová hradba
Via the chimney in the middle of the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Vozová hradba
Step across to the edge. Via the small arête/pillar and higher along the edge over the… Rock Climbing
4+
Vozová hradba
To the right of the chimney, over the overhang to the bolt/ring and directly to the top. Rock Climbing

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