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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Ústecká věž
Through the right part of the valley wall of the massive block over K to its summit. By a… Rock Climbing
5+
Ústecká věž
Up the middle of the valley S wall and traverse right to the edge to K. By crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Krkavec
Through the chimney in the upper (N) wall to the fore-rock. Traverse left to the edge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Krkavec
From the gully between the towers via a hand crack and chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Krkavec
From the fore-rock via the right upper N edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Krkavec
From the boulder up the wall along the left upper edge via K to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Krkavec
In the W wall briefly via a crack, under the overhang traverse right to the edge. Left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Krkavec
In the right part of the valley S wall to K. Diagonally right up the wall and crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Krkavec
Access via the Eagle's Path to the edge. From there left into the overhanging small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Větruše
From the right valley edge via a rib to the ledge, through the middle of the wall (K) to… Rock Climbing
4-
Rájecký roh
Right of the "Old Path" via the blunt edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Větruše
Along the right valley edge (2 K) to the terrace and up the small wall to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Zelinář
Right in the SW wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Větruše
Along the left valley edge to the ledge of the "Heron" path. Briefly via a crack (K) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Rájecký roh
Along the S edge and wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Rájecký roh
Right in the valley wall via a crack to a step towards K. Along the edge under a large… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4+
Rájecký roh
Via the valley crack, later up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
3
Rájecký roh
Up the NE wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Rájecký roh
Through the corner 2.5 m left of the S edge and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Ponorka
By overhanging crack and wall over 2 K onwards. Rock Climbing
5
Ponorka
By crack in the right part of the valley wall to the ledge, then left into another crack… Rock Climbing
2+
Rájecký roh
In the right part of the upper wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Ponorka
By crack in the E wall onwards. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Ponorka
Right in the valley wall over 2 K onwards. Rock Climbing
3
Rájecký roh
SW wall to the balcony to the edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Rájecký roh
In the left part of the upper wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Ponorka
Through the left chimney in the valley wall onto the ledge and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Ponorka
In the right part of the wall along the right edge and by cracks onwards. Rock Climbing
4-
Ponorka
Left of the route "Men don't age" by crack to the ledge and left by notch onwards. Rock Climbing
6
Ponorka
Narrow E wall directly over 1st ring, balcony and 2nd ring onwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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