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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7+/8-
Pilátova věž
Upwards from the highest point of the plateau wall, traverse approx. 7 meters to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Pilátova věž
Upwards via the NW overhanging edge, higher up via a crack and left to a fixed point.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Pilátova věž
Upwards via the route 'Čičmarak' to a fixed point. Further up the wall and slightly right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Pilátova věž
Just to the right of the West edge, up to the height of the ramp and cross right onto the… Rock Climbing
5
Pilátova věž
Upwards to the left of the SW edge onto a block. Along the edge over an overhang, higher… Rock Climbing
5
Pilátova věž
Upwards via the Valley Route into a hole (hourglass), into the 2nd hole (hourglass) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Pilátova věž
Upwards from the block in the West Wall by positioning and a crack to the right onto the… Rock Climbing
5+
Pilátova věž
Upwards from the block below the West Wall diagonally left to an overhanging crack, from… Rock Climbing
4+
Pilátova věž
Upwards in the middle of the South Wall via a diagonal crack to the balcony and right… Rock Climbing
5+
Pilátova věž
Upwards, start to the left of the West Wall, via the overhanging wall into a crack. Via… Rock Climbing
4-
Pilátova věž
Upwards from the block below the East Wall, traverse left along the ramp almost to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Rumcajs
Upwards via the Old Route to the highest point of the plateau wall and from there via a… Rock Climbing
5
Pilátova věž
Upwards, completely to the right in the valley South Wall is a step with an overhanging… Rock Climbing
?
Rumcajs
Upwards from the massif, a jump to the pre-summit and briefly via the wall. Rock Climbing
5+
Rumcajs
Upwards to the left in the West Wall via a crack over an overhang to the balcony (fixed… Rock Climbing
4-
Pilátova věž
Upwards from the block below the East Wall to the right of the SE edge, via a crack into… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Rumcajs
Upwards via the NW edge and wall to the balcony to the fixed point of Karča's crack. From… Rock Climbing
2+
Rumcajs
From the West via a chimney and a block onto a ledge, and via a crack and a chimney to… Rock Climbing
5+
Rumcajs
Upwards via the SW edge over a fixed point to the balcony and through the crack. Rock Climbing
3
Rumcajs
Upwards through the chimney in the valley wall. Rock Climbing
5+
Rumcajs
Via the wall to the right of the South Chimney into a crack and to K (fixed point). From… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Rumcajs
Upwards through the middle of the pillar to the left of the South Chimney over 3 fixed… Rock Climbing
5+
Hlásný
To the left of the Valley route via the edge over K (fixed point) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
3
Hlásný
In the North face to the fore-rock, step-across and via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Hlásný
In the South face via a corner and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
2
Hlásný
Via a gully/recess and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Hlásný
From the East via the wall and a crack to a balcony (K - fixed point). Via the edge to… Rock Climbing
4-
Hlásný
Via the North face of the large block North of Hlásný to its summit. Traverse to the left… Rock Climbing
6-
Hlásný
To the right of the South route via the smooth wall over K (fixed point) directly to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Hlásný
Via the smooth Northeast edge over K (fixed point) and an overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing

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