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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Hlásný
To the right of the Valley route via the wall and a crack to a balcony. Via the chimney… Rock Climbing
2
Hlásný
To the left on the West face via a crack and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
?
Vánoční
Via a wide short crack from the East to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Vánoční
To the right in the North wall, via a crack to its end. Traverse left to the ring (bolt… Rock Climbing
5
Vánoční
Through the center of the North face to K (fixed point). Via the crack over the 2nd K to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Vánoční
Via the Northeast edge over K (fixed point) to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Vánoční
To the left on the North face along the blunt edge over 2 K (fixed points) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Vánoční
To the left in the South wall, via cracks, to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Vánoční
From the valley side of the West edge to K (bolt/piton) and to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Vánoční
m (meters) to the left of the 'Normal Route', up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Vánoční
To the right in the South wall, up steps into a notch and to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Vánoční
To the right in the South wall, via a notch, to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Bumbrlíček
To the left in the North wall, up the wall along the edge, over K (bolt/piton) to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Bumbrlíček
In the left part of the valley wall, traverse the overhanging wall to the left onto the… Rock Climbing
6-
Bumbrlíček
Via the valley edge over 2 K (bolts/pitons) to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Komínová věž
Right in the East face via the chimney, higher up via a crack and the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Bumbrlíček
From the boulder left into the center of the South face and onto the balcony. Southeast… Rock Climbing
6-
Komínová věž
Right of the Old Route via a narrow wall over K directly to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Bumbrlíček
To the right in the North wall, via a crack, to the balcony (protection). Traverse left… Rock Climbing
6-
Komínová věž
Right of "NW crack" via a fine crack to the 1st K. Left along the edge to the balcony to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Ka - ka - ka
Short, slightly overhanging wall via the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Komínová věž
Narrow overhanging North face to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Komínová věž
Right in the West face via a crack to the balcony to K and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Komínová věž
In the left part of the East face via a fine crack to K and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Komínová věž
Through the chimney between the towers to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Komínová věž
Left in the West face via the corner over the overhang to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Pozdňátko
Northwest edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Pozdňátko
Left in the valley wall via a crack to the hour-glass, traverse to K and up the wall to… Rock Climbing
4+
Pozdňátko
Right of the "Old Route" via the overhanging wall to K, left crack to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Pozdňátko
Right in the Northeast face through the hole to the top. Rock Climbing

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