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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Strážce mraveniště
From the large ledge left in the valley wall over overhang to K and directly over another… Rock Climbing
4+
Strážce mraveniště
From the E edge left to K, by notch to the ledge and directly onwards. Rock Climbing
6
Strážce mraveniště
Right in the valley wall over overhang to K, by wall to the ledge and onwards. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Strážce mraveniště
Middle of the valley wall over 1st K to a large ledge, from there over 2nd K to another… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4+
Strážce mraveniště
Left of the "Ant's Corner" by rib to K, further along the left rib to the ledge and by… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Strážce mraveniště
Start from the slope in the upper wall. By corner over overhang and onwards. Rock Climbing
5+
Masiv u Mouchy
Through the center of the massif up the wall via a hole and a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Masiv u Mouchy
Through a broken crack to the left of the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Masiv u Mouchy
Through a diagonal crack (slings) to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Masiv u Mouchy
Left edge to the ledge and wall onwards. Rock Climbing
3
Masív u Pilátovy věže
Start to the right (E) from the gorge into a chimney and up it to the central summit of… Rock Climbing
4-
Masív u Pilátovy věže
From the gorge, to the left of the route "Na Svatého Jiří" (To Saint George), up the W… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Masív u Pilátovy věže
From the 2nd bolt directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Masív u Pilátovy věže
Through the chimney to the right in the valley wall to the terrace, traverse left into… Rock Climbing
2+
Masív u Pilátovy věže
Through the corner from SW between Pilate and Pilate's massif, right around a block into… Rock Climbing
4+
Masív u Pilátovy věže
In the right part of the valley (S) face, along the edge upwards, traverse left and… Rock Climbing
4-
Masív u Pilátovy věže
Up the wall to the right of the South Crack (2 rings) to the pillar and optionally up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Masív u Pilátovy věže
Through the middle of the east face via a crack to a break, then diagonally left, through… Rock Climbing
6
Masív u Pilátovy věže
Start from the gorge between the Massif and Pilate's Tower. Along the left edge of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Masív u Pilátovy věže
Through the crack in the middle of the valley S face to ledges and by the right crack of… Rock Climbing
3
Masív u Pilátovy věže
Through a winding crack in the south face into a chimney, left through a crack to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Pilátova věž
Through the crack of the Old Route to the hole, from there right through cracks over an… Rock Climbing
5+
Pilátova věž
Upwards from the NE from the gully between the tower and the massif, left into a hole,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Masív u Pilátovy věže
Start between Milan and the massif. Up the right crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Masív u Pilátovy věže
Start between Milan and the massif. Up the left crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Masív u Pilátovy věže
In the right part of the valley wall, up the wall via a bolt to a balcony and further… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Pilátova věž
From the massif above the tower, descend about 3m and jump to the ledge on the NE edge.… Rock Climbing
6-
Pilátova věž
Upwards via the West Wall route to the hourglass, from there directly to a fixed point… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Pilátova věž
Upwards through the middle of the plateau wall via an overhang (1 bolt) to a ledge … Rock Climbing Textile belay
9/9+
Pilátova věž
Upwards via the North Wall to the left of the 'Chasm of History' directly to the bolt,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1

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