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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Dubská věž
To the right in the valley wall via a crack to a step and to the right to K. From there… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Dubská věž
From the SE wall of a narrow pillar via K up. Rock Climbing
3
Dubská věž
Through the corner and chimney up. Rock Climbing
2+
Dubská věž
To the left of the Old Route along the rib to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Dubská věž
To the left of the "Hofivo Route" by a chimney and a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Dubská věž
By the chimney from the SE to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Dubská věž
Briefly by a crack, then left and up the wall along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Dubská věž
To the right of the SE chimney by the wall over K to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Dubská věž
To the left of the chimney by a long rib up. Rock Climbing
2+
Dubská věž
By the chimney over a large jammed boulder to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Dubská věž
By the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Včelín
To the left in the N face to K. By a crack to its end to the 2nd K. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Včelín
Through the middle of the N face from the left to a ledge to K, by a crack and an edge to… Rock Climbing
3
Včelín
From the East from the massif by a step-over to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Včelín
By the disagreement/opposing chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Dubská věž
From the N to the right onto a balcony with a sunken block and by a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Včelín
By the SE edge to K, from the right by the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Včelín
From a narrow pillar in the valley face into the "Valley Route" and up that to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Včelín
By a crack/disagreement between Dubská Tower and the crack-chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Včelín
From Dubská Tower by a crack/disagreement and a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Včelín
To the right in the N face, right onto the edge and up that to the pillar. Traverse and… Rock Climbing
5+
Včelín
To the right in the N face by a sloping wall under an overhang (loop). Up the overhanging… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Botanika
Through the middle of the SE face to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Botanika
From the right by the NE edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Botanika
By a crack/disagreement between the massif and Včelín to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Botanika
By the left chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Botanika
To the left in the N face by a crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Botanika
By the right chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Botanika
To the right in the N face by a wide crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Botanika
In the middle of the W face under an overhanging crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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