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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Botanika
South edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Botanika
Center of the South face by crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Botanika
Left of the "] crack" up the wall over K to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Mašinka
In the right part of the North face, by overhanging arête to the horizontal ledge and to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Mašinka
Edge over a ring to the ring of the bypass route and up that to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Mašinka
By chimney in the East face and by stemming up, traverse right to K, by hand crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Mašinka
Center of the wall and by crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Mašinka
By gash from SW and gully to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Mašinka
In the left part of the North face, by crack over K to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Mašinka
From South, in the plateau trench, up the wall or right via a crack to the ledge and to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kulihrášek
In the left part of the S wall several meters upwards to the edge. Traverse left onto the… Rock Climbing
4+
Kulihrášek
Up the S wall to the crack, through it into another crack and upwards. Rock Climbing
5+
Kulihrášek
Upwards via the crack in the upper N wall. Rock Climbing
6-
Kulihrášek
Briefly upwards via the Broken Crack route, diagonally left to the bolt and directly… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Kulihrášek
To the right in the N wall over 2 bolts and upwards via the crack. Rock Climbing
5
Kulihrášek
In the right part of the S wall onto the balcony and upwards via the overhanging wall. Rock Climbing
5+
Kulihrášek
Into the narrow wall over the bolt onto the ledge and upwards via the Old Route. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Kulihrášek
Up the upper N wall to the platform and via the overhanging groove from the E upwards. Rock Climbing
5
Špendlík
From the left onto the narrow E wall to the bolt and directly upwards. Rock Climbing
5
Špendlík
To the left in the N wall to the bolt, left to the hourglass formation and upwards via… Rock Climbing
4-
Špendlík
In the N wall to the left via a receding crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Holubník
Along the right valley edge over K to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Holubník
Via the wall along the left valley edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Holubník
In the S wall via a crack and an edge to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Rynek
From the N into the chimney in the corner and via it to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Rynek
Left of the corner in the S wall through the middle of the wall over BH to the platform.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Rynek
From the W via a series of cracks to the ledge. Through "Max's Chimney" to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Rynek
Left of the chimney via a narrow chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Rynek
Right of the "North Crack" path along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Rynek
Right of the "Max's Chimney" path via the wall to the pillar and to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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