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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Hvězdná brána
To the left in the valley face to the ledge, then via the crack and edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Hvězdná brána
To the left in the W-face via the crack and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Soví skála na ostrohu
From the fore-rock from the NW via the wall to the left to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Soví skála na ostrohu
Directly via the S-edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Soví skála na ostrohu
From the fore-rock directly via the NE-edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Hvězdná brána
Through the middle of the valley face via K to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Hvězdná brána
To the right in the E-face via the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Hvězdná brána
Through the middle of the E-face via K to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Masiv zrzavých mravenců
In the left part of the valley face to K, then via the small crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Masiv zrzavých mravenců
In the right part of the valley face via the rib to K, then via the small crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Bábovka
From the upper face via the overhanging wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Bábovka
Through the narrow E-face via K to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Bábovka
In the valley face via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Bábovka
From the W via the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Malý strážce svahu
Through the narrow valley W-face directly via the ring to the pillar and via the "From… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Malý strážce svahu
Directly through the middle of the S-facelet via the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Malý strážce svahu
From the left to the middle of the S-lying slabs and via them to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Strážce svahu
From the massif descend and traverse to the exit of the route “Path from the Gully”.… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Strážce svahu
To the left in the massif, step across to the balcony and to the top. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Strážce svahu
In the right part of the massif, step across to the slanted wall. Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce svahu
Via a crack in the SE wall directly to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Strážce svahu
From the block (aided/build-up) via the valley wall to the rib, then via the wall and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Strážce svahu
Along the S edge via stemming between the massif and the tower for about 9 m, then a step… Rock Climbing
6-
Strážce svahu
Start via the chimney on the left in the valley wall. Through it to the ledge, traverse… Rock Climbing
3
Strážce svahu
Via a crack near the edge to a small ledge, from the left via a stemming chimney to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce svahu
From the right valley edge diagonally left, along the crack and edge to a large ledge.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Strážce svahu
Through the middle of the W wall via a crooked crack to a small balcony and through the… Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce svahu
In the right part of the gully via stemming to the crack, then via that and a short wall… Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce svahu
Just to the right of the E edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Strážce svahu
Along the NE edge to the top. Rock Climbing

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