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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Strážce kazatelny
On the right in the plateau wall along the edge to the ledge, diagonally left via the rib… Rock Climbing
3
Rájecká hrouda
On the right in the S wall over the step to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Rájecká hrouda
Via the wide crack in the E wall to the ledge and from the right to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Rájecká hrouda
Via the edge in the S plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Rájecká hrouda
Via the overhanging right edge in the plateau wall over K to the ledge, from there… Rock Climbing
5+
Strážce kazatelny
From the large block via the right part of the S valley wall over 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Strážce kazatelny
From the large block in the valley wall diagonally left to K. Via the wall to a large… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Strážce kazatelny
Via the Z wall over K and higher up via the edge over two hourglasses to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Strážce kazatelny
Left of the Old Route below the overhang (hourglasses) and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Strážce kazatelny
Through the crack in the E wall to the ledge. Overhanging crack left to the edge and into… Rock Climbing
2
Strážce kazatelny
Through the corner in the middle of the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Strážce kazatelny
Via the crack on the right in the valley wall, higher up via the corner on the left to… Rock Climbing
3
Narozeninový hrot
From the block in the plateau wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Narozeninový hrot
Via the left valley edge or the middle of the wall (harder) to the balcony and by the … Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Kobliha (krapfen)
From the start of the "Old Route" via the edge and wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Narozeninový hrot
Traverse from the plateau side left into the middle of the valley wall to the balcony and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kobliha (krapfen)
Through the middle of the valley wall over the overhang to the ledge and via the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Kobliha (krapfen)
In the SE face via a crack and the face over the bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Kobliha (krapfen)
Via the right valley South edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Listopadová věž
To the right of the Old Route via the face to a small rib and up the small face to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Listopadová věž
From the boulder below the West edge via a rib to the right onto a smooth edge and via… Rock Climbing
3
Kobliha (krapfen)
Via the upper plateau face through a hole to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Listopadová věž
Up the face to the left of the Valley Crack over the bolt into a small gulley and up the… Rock Climbing
6-
Listopadová věž
To the left in the valley face to the bolt and diagonally right, higher up the face… Rock Climbing
4-
Kobliha (krapfen)
Via the right upper plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Kobliha (krapfen)
In the NE face via a notch to a balcony and to the right via the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Listopadová věž
To the left in the upper plateau face via a gulley to the bolt, up the face into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Listopadová věž
From the boulder in the left part of the upper plateau face, traverse left to the edge… Rock Climbing
2+
Listopadová věž
From the upper plateau side via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Listopadová věž
From the left upper plateau edge to the bolt, directly up the face to the ledge via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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