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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Míra
Via the West edge upwards. Rock Climbing
3
Míra
Through the middle of the South wall upwards. Rock Climbing
4+
Slimáková věž
Via the edge over the round bulges upwards. Rock Climbing
5
Míra
Via the small wall in the North wall into the small gully, follow it under the overhang.… Rock Climbing
2+
Míra
Through the crack in the East wall upwards. Rock Climbing
4+
Míra
From the middle of the East wall to the right and with a lift into the hole. Through a… Rock Climbing
2
Míra
In the West wall through a wide indentation upwards. Rock Climbing
3
Míra
Up the rounded Northwest edge and small crack upwards. Rock Climbing
4+
Slimáková věž
Via the Southwest edge left into the gully and through it upwards. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
5
Slimáková věž
Over the overhanging Southeast edge via the bolt upwards. Rock Climbing
4+
Třeboňská věž
To the left of Ivančina's route via the edge upwards. Rock Climbing
2
Slimáková věž
Anywhere on the upper wall upwards. Rock Climbing
6-
Slimáková věž
Through the middle of the lower wall over 2 bolts upwards. Rock Climbing
5+
Slimáková věž
Through the overhanging East wall over the bolt upwards. Rock Climbing
4+
Třeboňská věž
Through the crack in the West wall upwards. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Třeboňská věž
To the left of "Luňák's route" via a fissure to the ring, then slightly right up the wall. Rock Climbing
5
Třeboňská věž
Via the diagonal small ledge in the lower wall to the left and up the twin crack. Rock Climbing
3
Třeboňská věž
Directly up the Northeast edge. Rock Climbing
4+
Třeboňská věž
Directly up the left lower Southwest edge. Rock Climbing
5
Třeboňská věž
Directly up the right lower Southeast edge. Rock Climbing
5+
Třeboňská věž
Directly up the middle of the South wall over the bolt. Rock Climbing
5
Třeboňská věž
Via the small ledge in the middle of the lower wall to a step. Rock Climbing
4-
Věž přátel skal
Via the cracks in the middle of the S valley wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Věž přátel skal
Through the crack in the upper North wall diagonally right upwards. Rock Climbing
2
Třeboňská věž
From the block in the upper wall via the gully upwards. Rock Climbing
4+
Věž přátel skal
Through the overhanging crack in the West wall over the bolt upwards. Rock Climbing
4+
Věž přátel skal
Left in the lower wall into the crack to the bolt and from there through the hole upwards. Rock Climbing
4-
Věž přátel skal
Via the SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Rájecká hrouda
Via the curved SW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Věž přátel skal
Via the left crack in the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing

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