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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2
Rynek
From the slope on the N side via steps and a crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Rynek
Through the middle of the SE wall via a wide crack over a wedged block to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Rynek
Left in the SE wall via a receding crack to the edge. Via the crack to the balcony. Left… Rock Climbing
4+
Rynek
Through the corner in the valley S wall. Via the crack to the balcony. By the Pranýř … Rock Climbing
4-
Rynek
Left of the Podloubí (Arcade/Colonnade) path via a winding crack to the balcony and by… Rock Climbing
4+
Rynek
Via the wall of the pillar in the valley wall to K onto the balcony and by the "Pranýř" … Rock Climbing
5
Rynek
Through the chimney to the balcony. To the right to K and directly to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Rynek
Via a prominent series of cracks in the valley wall and then through the chimney of the … Rock Climbing
3
Rynek
By the crack to the left in the plateau wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Rynek
From the slope from a block, overhanging wall to the crack. Over K to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Rynek
At the V-edge with an indentation to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Rynek
Up the wall to the left of the plateau chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Rynek
Completely to the right in the SE wall via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Rynek
Up the wall to the right of the crack in the plateau wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Rynek
By the chimney to the right in the plateau wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Soví skála na ostrohu
By the left crack in the valley wall to the fore-summit. Via the Old Route to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Soví skála na ostrohu
Through the center of the NW wall to the terrace and via the Northwest Route to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Soví skála na ostrohu
In the NW wall by a small crack diagonally right to the edge (belay) and via it to the… Rock Climbing
5
Soví skála na ostrohu
By the crack through the center of the valley wall to the fore-summit. Via the Old Route… Rock Climbing
5+
Soví skála na ostrohu
Start left of the Left Crack route. Through the crack and higher up the crack to the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Soví skála na ostrohu
Through the center of the valley wall over a K to the ledge to the crack. By the crack,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Soví skála na ostrohu
From the edge over one K to the terrace and via the Northwest Route to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Soví skála na ostrohu
In the right part of the valley wall by the edge and to its right, higher up the wall to… Rock Climbing
6
Soví skála na ostrohu
To the right in the valley wall over 3 K's to the ledge and along the left edge to the… Rock Climbing
5
Soví skála na ostrohu
In the left part of the NW wall with an overhanging start into the crack and via it to… Rock Climbing
4-
Soví skála na ostrohu
By the crack in the SE wall to the terrace and via the Old Route to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Soví skála na ostrohu
From the center of the SE wall diagonally left to the edge into the Psycho route. Via the… Rock Climbing
5+
Soví skála na ostrohu
To the right of the Right Crack route over two K's to the gallery. With an overhanging… Rock Climbing
4+
Hvězdná brána
Via the SW edge to the ledge and through the middle of the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Soví skála na ostrohu
Via the NW-face from the terrace to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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