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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

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Střelecký trůn
Rock Climbing
6-
Střelnice
Left of the valley wall into the hole to the hourglass and over the overhang to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Střelnice
Through a wide crack in the valley wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Ptačí kužel
In the NE wall from the block, simple climbing into the corner and via the Tunnel route… Rock Climbing
2+
Střelnice
Through the middle of the E wall to the ledge and to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Střelnice
Right of the "Valley crack" into the hole to the hourglass and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Střelnice
Along the left valley edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Střelnice
From the block to the SE edge and up to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Ptačí kužel
Up a crack in the middle of the S wall over holes and an overhang, higher up left to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Ptačí kužel
Up the SW edge to the pre-summit rock and further along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Ptačí kužel
Up the NE edge over a K directly to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Ptačí kužel
In the W wall, up a crack into a hole and over a K to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Ptačí kužel
Up the NW edge, higher up right into the W wall and up into a crack. Then up this crack… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Ptačí kužel
Up an overhanging crack in the plateau wall over a K into a hole, then left into a crack… Rock Climbing
9
Ptačí kužel
On the way, a border point into a hole (secured), and then directly up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Vertical wall
4+
Ptačí kužel
Up the SE edge (to the left of the chimney) over hourglasses into an overhanging crack,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Ptačí kužel
From the start of the Valley Route directly up the wall over an overhang to a ledge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Ptačí kužel
From two-thirds of the chimney, traverse right into the SE wall below the overhang. To… Rock Climbing
5
Kóta 23/8
Up a crack at the SW edge for a short distance, then traverse right and up another crack… Rock Climbing
4+
Kóta 23/8
Up a crack along the edge to its end and over an overhang to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Kóta 23/8
Up the middle of the valley wall via 2 K's to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Kóta 23/8
Up a chimney and crack to the right in the plateau's N wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Kóta 23/8
Up the NW edge along the rib to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Kóta 23/8
Via the right crack upwards. Rock Climbing
4+
Kóta 23/8
To the right in the S wall of the right lower half of the massif via a rib and the wall… Rock Climbing
3
Kóta 23/8
Up a chimney to the left in the S wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Kóta 23/8
Up the corner between the walls to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Kóta 23/8
Up a chimney to the left in the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Kóta 23/8
Up a hand crack into a hole and then another crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Kóta 23/8
To the left in the SE wall along the edge over a ring to the top. Rock Climbing

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