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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Kóta 23/8
Up the middle of the S wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Kóta 23/8
To the right of the "Eastern Crack" to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Rájecký bobek
Via the crack to the left of the "Stopou v bobku" route upwards. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Rájecká věž
To the left in the upper wall over the bolt to the ledge and right via the crack upwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Rájecký bobek
Via the left corner upwards. Rock Climbing
4-
Rájecký bobek
Via the short left upper edge (sling) upwards. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Rájecká věž
To the right in the upper wall via a crack and up the wall over the bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Rájecký bobek
In the upper wall via a short crack or right to a step and up the chimney. Rock Climbing
5+
Rájecký bobek
Far left in the gully between the Rajecká Tower and the massif via the left edge and the… Rock Climbing
2+
Rájecký bobek
Approach from the Rajecká Tower. Via the right corner upwards. Rock Climbing
6
Rájecká věž
Up the blunt valley edge directly to the bolt, right up the wall higher left onto the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Rájecká věž
To the left of the "Espresso" route via a crack under the overhang, traverse left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Rájecká věž
To the right of the "Espresso" route up the wall to the 1st bolt onto the balcony (we… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Rájecká věž
Via the crack in the middle of the W wall to the bolt, right onto the SW edge and up that… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Rájecká věž
From the bolt directly upwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Rájecká věž
Via the crack near the NW edge to the balcony. From there right to the 1st bolt. Right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Rájecká věž
Up the SE edge (ring - added in 2000), left into the crack and up it. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Rájecká věž
Via the NE edge into the corner and up it. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Strážce pískoviště
Via the next crack into the chimney and through it onwards. Rock Climbing
4-
Rájecká věž
From the corner, up the wall to the left. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Rájecká věž
Via the diagonal crack in the S wall upwards. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Strážce pískoviště
First crack from the slope upwards. Rock Climbing
5+
Strážce pískoviště
Via the crack to the right in the valley wall to the rounded edge and up it over K… Rock Climbing
4+
Strážce pískoviště
Via the right crack in the W wall onwards. Rock Climbing
5
Strážce pískoviště
Along the left valley edge over K onwards. Rock Climbing
6
Strážce pískoviště
From the K of the route "Preacher of our street" directly onwards. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Strážce pískoviště
Through the middle of the S wall via a hole to K. From there, left into the crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Strážce pískoviště
Via the narrow crack in the W wall onwards. Rock Climbing
5+
Strážce pískoviště
Via the dihedral to K and along the crack over another K onwards. Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce hranic
From the terrace along the N edge to the N summit and jump or traverse over onwards. Rock Climbing

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