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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Pašerák (SRN)
Through cracks in the S face to the ledge. By standing into the cracks on the small… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Pašerák (SRN)
All the way to the right on the S side up the sloping wall to a small pillar. Left (clock… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Strážce hranic (SRN)
NW edge and notch right to the 1st large ledge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Strážce hranic (SRN)
2 m left of the "N wall" by crack over the overhang to K. By crack left to the edge to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Pašerák (SRN)
Center of the S face briefly to the ledge. Left (crosses "SE Way Variant") by overhanging… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Pašerák (SRN)
2 blocks in the NE face traverse right and fine crack left of the N edge up. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Pašerák (SRN)
1 m left of the "NE way" by blunt edge and wall (2 K) up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Pašerák (SRN)
From the upland side right to the E edge into the hole. Under the overhang traverse left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Pašerák (SRN)
From the block in the NE face 2.5 m left of the "Náhorní cesta" (Upland Way), by standing… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Pašerák (SRN)
In the NW face by cracks to the ledge. Right and up the W edge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Pašerák (SRN)
Left up the valley wall and crack to the ledge. Up the wall. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Pašerák (SRN)
From the block in the NE by standing and gully up. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Pašerák (SRN)
In the center of the valley wall into a hole, and right to K. Up the wall first right and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Pašerák (SRN)
Along the S edge under the overhang, left into a gully. Through it and the "Old Route" to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Pašerák (SRN)
From the block in the NE wall traverse left into the SE wall. Up the wall and left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Pašerák (SRN)
Along the V-edge (intersects "Old Route") around K, higher up via the "Old Route" to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Pašerák (SRN)
1.5 m right of the "Autumn Route" enter a hole to the right. Directly up the overhanging… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Studená vyhlídka
From the plateau traverse right and along the SW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Lidovka
In the left part of the smooth valley wall, start from the small chimney, up the wall… Rock Climbing
3
Studená vyhlídka
Along the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kamzičí bobek
From the valley edge and from the left to the summit. Rock Climbing Danger
7/7+
Sektor X
Left crack to an overgrown ledge - abseil. Rock Climbing
9/9+
Lidovka
Right of the "Populist" route, up the wall over 2 bolt hangers to the abseil bolt hanger… Rock Climbing
3
Studená vyhlídka
Directly up the center of the N plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Pavlina věž
In the left part of the (N) plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Kamzičí bobek
From the saddle, up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Pavlina věž
From the "Old Route" traverse left into the chimney in the valley wall. Through the… Rock Climbing
4+
Pavlina věž
In the right part of the valley wall, through an overhanging crack to the balcony.… Rock Climbing
2+
Pavlina věž
In the center of the N wall, through an overgrown wall and a small corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Pavlina věž
From the saddle (from the S) between Pavlina Tower and Pavlina Valley Tower, up the… Rock Climbing

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