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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Vstupní brána
Along the right edge of the fallen block via the small pinnacle, later up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Vstupní brána
Along the left edge to the block and via the ramp to K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Vstupní brána
From the gate, to the right in the S wall via the small pinnacle and crack n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Vstupní brána
Through the middle of the valley wall via the crack n. v. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Vstupní brána
From the passage, up the overhanging wall directly over the ring and from the right n. v.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Vstupní brána
Through the middle of the wall of the fallen block over K n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Dívčí stěna
To the right in the W wall over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Vstupní brána
Along the left plateau edge of the adjacent block to its top and freely n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Dívčí stěna
Up the short wall, attached to K and directly n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Vstupní brána
Up the wall and through the crack to the edge and along it n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Vstupní brána
To the left of the corner crack, via the small pinnacle along the edge to the balcony and… Rock Climbing
4-
Vstupní brána
Through the corner crack n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Dívčí stěna
By double crack n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Vlkova věž
Via a variation of the "Old Route" to the ledge and to K, through the hollow and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Dívčí stěna
Up the wall along fine cracks to the balcony and further along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Dívčí stěna
In the right part of the SW wall, up the wall along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Dívčí stěna
Through the crack in the middle of the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Dívčí stěna
In the right part of the SE wall, through a crack and higher up a chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Dívčí stěna
In the fall line of the highest peak, through the middle of the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Vlkova věž
Via a variation of the Old Route to the ledge and around K directly through the crack to… Rock Climbing
5+
Vlkova věž
Left in the E wall over K and small cracks to the top. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Vlkova věž
Through the center of the north wall to K, directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4-
Vlkova věž
Through the right part of the valley wall to the ledge and via the Old Route to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Vlkova věž
In the right part of the E wall over K to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Vlkova věž
From the boulder below the NE wall into the wall and to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Vlkova věž
From the boulder left to the edge and to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Dámská věž
In the right part of the upper E wall 3 m up to the notch, right to the edge and to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Vlkova věž
Through the crack in the N edge to a ledge in the NW wall and further along the N edge to… Rock Climbing
6
Dámská věž
In the right part of the valley SW wall to K. Above it, left to the step and along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Dámská věž
In the upper wall from right to left up to the balcony, left to the (SE) edge and to the… Rock Climbing

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