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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Dámská věž
Through the center of the upper wall via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Dámská věž
Through the right part of the valley wall into the notch and diagonally right below the… Rock Climbing
5+
Dámská věž
Through the overhanging crack in the N wall to the small balcony to K. Through the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Dámská věž
Left of the Old Route, up the wall through a hole to K. Diagonally left along the rib to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Dámská věž
Through the center of the N wall to K and a small crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Klobouk
Left of the path, a string over salted hourglasses to a blunt edge and along it over a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Klobouk
Through the left crack in the valley wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Dámská věž
Via the route "Resonant Rib" to 1st K, then slightly right into the 'sokolík' (small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Větrná hůrka
Via the crack in the left part of the wall to a balcony and right to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Klobouk
In the right part of the S wall via the crack over K to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Větrná hůrka
Up the narrow west wall to a balcony and right to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Klobouk
Through the center of the valley wall under the overhang and left to the balcony and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Klobouk
Left in the wall, right to the balcony and right to K of the path Balconies without views… Rock Climbing
5
Klobouk
Overhanging E edge (K) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Větrná hůrka
Via the corner crack to a balcony and right to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Větrná hůrka
Up the rib to K and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Větrná hůrka
Up the center of the wall over K to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Havranpírko
Left of the "Northern Chimney" via the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Havranpírko
In the left part of the valley wall to a balcony and via the left edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Větrná hůrka
Up the gully along the right edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Havranpírko
In the left part of the valley wall to a balcony and over BH to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Havranpírko
To the right up the wall over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Havranpírko
From the center of the valley wall diagonally right to a small balcony. Over the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Havranpírko
Right of the route 'Eastern Chimney' via the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Havranpírko
Up the center of the valley wall over 2 BJ to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Pírečko
Up the plateau wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Pírečko
Via the left valley edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Lidský masiv
In the left part of the massif directly up the wall via K to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Lidský masiv
In the left part of the wall via a hole to the rib to K. Up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Pírečko
Along the right valley edge to the top. Rock Climbing

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