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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Krkavčí dráp
Via the indistinct SW edge into the hole and up the rib to K. From there, left and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Krkavčí dráp
Through a wide chimney in the valley wall, upwards. Rock Climbing
6-
Krkavčí dráp
From the center of the S face, traverse left along the sloping ledge to K of the "Broken… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Čudlovo ucho
Via the left edge of the W face straight to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Krkavčí dráp
Via the right crack in the S face to the top. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Čudlovo ucho
From Ostříž descend approx. 3m to a prominent ledge. From there, traverse/step across to… Rock Climbing
4+
Čudlovo ucho
Via the left valley edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Čudlovo ucho
To the left in the W face onto the small edge and straight to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Krkavčí dráp
Via the wide crack in the S face to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Čudlovo ucho
In the right part of the W face via the arete and the overhanging edge over the ledge to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Krkavčí dráp
Completely to the right in the S face via the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Čudlovo ucho
Via the corner in the plateau wall of the block below Ostříž to its summit. Rock Climbing
5
Ostříž
Via the crack leading left in the plateau wall under the overhang, traverse left to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Čudlovo ucho
In the right part of the valley wall to K and to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Ostříž
Via the SW edge into the hole to K. Up into the notch and right along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Ostříž
Under the overhang to the right and up the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Listonoš
To the left in the valley wall via the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Ostříž
From the center of the N face, diagonally right up to the NW edge and to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Listonoš
From the block under the SW face of the left half of the massif, step into the hole and… Rock Climbing
4+
Ostříž
Via an overhang from the block below the W face to the hole and diagonally right to the… Rock Climbing
6
Listonoš
To the right of the chimney dividing the massif into two halves, up the overhanging crack… Rock Climbing
6-
Listonoš
Ascent via "Postman's Fairytale". To the left past the edge and over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Listonoš
Start via the route "Seal" onto the ledge and to the left to a bolt (K) and through a… Rock Climbing
6-
Listonoš
Start via the route "Seal". From the ledge to the left up the wall over 2 bolts (K)… Rock Climbing
4+
Listonoš
In the left part of the massif into a deep chimney below a large wedged boulder onto a… Rock Climbing
4+
Listonoš
Through the holes below the crack and through it upwards. Rock Climbing
4+
Listonoš
Completely on the left through a wide crack over the overhang upwards. Rock Climbing
5+
Listonoš
To the left of the "Old Postman" route, over the overhang to the right towards the clock… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Listonoš
Left of the route "Postal Secret" under the overhang to a bolt (K) and straight upwards. Rock Climbing
6-
Listonoš
Through the center of the pillar in the NW wall over 2 bolts (BH) upwards. Rock Climbing

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