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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Aicha (Ajša)
By the May – May route into a hole, to the left into another crack and along it n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Palička
In the right part of the valley face, over K and n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Palička
In the right part of the valley face, through an overhang into a crack and along it n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Okenní stěna
On the right in the narrow West face, over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Okenní stěna
On the left in the SW face, from a large hole via a crack to a window and further via a… Rock Climbing
3
Okenní stěna
To the left of the North route, a corner with a hand crack n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Okenní stěna
With the edge over K n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Okenní stěna
By a corner in the North face n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Okenní stěna
Through the center of the SW face, through a crack into a hole to K and up the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Školka dráček
On the left in the West face, by a rib under the overhang. Another rib to K. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Okenní stěna
On the right in the valley face, by a small chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Školka dráček
Left in the W wall over the holes to K and by the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Okenní stěna
In the right part of the SW face, diagonally to the right n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Školka dráček
By the crack in the center of the W descending wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Školka dráček
Right in the S wall corner to the step and along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Invalidovna
Left of the chimney by the wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Školka dráček
Right in the W wall into the hole to K. Chimneying and higher left by crack n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Školka dráček
Overhang directly onto the right descending edge, that (loops) higher over the overhang… Rock Climbing
2
Invalidovna
By the chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Invalidovna
Overhanging wall from SW over K and higher in the recess n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Invalidovna
Through the center of the W wall by crack n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Invalidovna
Right of the chimney by the wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Invalidovna
Right in the W wall over the big hole through the cracks n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Invalidovna
Left in the SW wall to the small crack and it over the step n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Babylón
Right of the path, descending crack through the fissure to the ledge, then by the edge… Rock Climbing
4-
Babylón
Right in W onto the balcony, diagonally right into the corner and it n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Babylón
In the left part of the W wall to K, up to the next hole (sling) and by the wall along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Babylón
Left of the path, descending crack by rib to the hole to K and straight n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Babylón
By the broken edge to the short crack and higher by the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Babylón
Through the center of the descending wall by crack n. v. Rock Climbing

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