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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Babylón
Crack into the hole (hourglass) and left to the next hourglasses. From them up and right… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Babylón
Start on the Old Route under the big hole, traverse left 1st BH. From it straight through… Rock Climbing
4+
Babylón
On the right in the E wall, up the indistinct edge, then up the overhang and crack n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Babylón
Corner and crack n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Babylón
Old route into the big hole from it to BH and straight n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Babylón
Left in the SW wall over the overhang into the hole and over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Babylón
Left in the SE wall from right to left above the overhang and up into the hole. Crack to… Rock Climbing
3
Babylón
To the left of the chimney via the rib and wall n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Babylón
From the NE from the saddle, left up the chimney or over the adjacent block n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Utopenec
In the right part of the wall, over K n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Šibenice
Up the crack to the left of the big corner n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Šibenice
Through the center of the SE downhill wall, over K n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Šibenice
On the left in the W wall, up the crack and over the overhang n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Šibenice
Up the corner in the downhill wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Utopenec
In the left part of the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Sokolí vyhlídka
Through the center of the NW wall, past the hourglass and 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Sokolí vyhlídka
To the left of the cave, up the crack to the step and along the W edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Sokolí vyhlídka
On the left in the NW wall, up the wide overhanging crack n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Šibenice
In the right part of the SE wall, overhanging through K n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Šibenice
Up the crack to the right of the right downhill edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Sokolí vyhlídka
Far left in the NW wall, briefly up the corner and right along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Sokolí vyhlídka
Via the route 'Beautiful Day' to the 1st K. Traverse left and up the hand crack n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Sokolí vyhlídka
In the NW wall, to the right of the corner, through the wall under the overhang, right… Rock Climbing
4+
Sokolí vyhlídka
From the left part of the ledge, left onto the rounded edge and up it n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Sokolí vyhlídka
Through the center of the wall, through a hole diagonally left under the overhang to K… Rock Climbing
4-
Sokolí vyhlídka
By crack and depression n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Sokolí vyhlídka
From the ledge under the W wall into the crack and up it n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Sokolí vyhlídka
In the SW wall, to the right of the crack, through the wall via a hole and K n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Sokolí vyhlídka
In the SW wall, using a hand-foot jam and corner n. v. Rock Climbing
2+
Sokolí vyhlídka
From the deep corner up the narrow chimney inside n. v. Rock Climbing

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