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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Kostka
From the pre-summit, a short uphill W edge, wedging n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Kostka
Crack in the N wall over the BH n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Kostka
NW edge n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Bloková věž (Zelený Jindřich)
On the left in the downhill wall, open crack to the ledge and then up to the right… Rock Climbing
3
Bloková věž (Zelený Jindřich)
Zigzag crack in the SE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Bloková věž (Zelený Jindřich)
To the left of the recess, along the steps, then up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Bloková věž (Zelený Jindřich)
In the right part of the narrow NW wall to the ring. At the edge to the ledge and up the… Rock Climbing
5+
Bloková věž (Zelený Jindřich)
Through the middle of the downhill wall, double crack to the widening and to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Bloková věž (Zelený Jindřich)
From the deep corner in the left part of the uphill wall, overhanging crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Bloková věž (Zelený Jindřich)
Left from the corner to the edge, then up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Bloková věž (Zelený Jindřich)
In the left part of the narrow NW wall, diagonal crack to the small balcony near the… Rock Climbing
4-
Bloková věž (Zelený Jindřich)
Overhanging chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Bloková věž (Zelený Jindřich)
Wall between the recesses to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Bloková věž (Zelený Jindřich)
Wall to the right of the recess to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Bloková věž (Zelený Jindřich)
From the S side to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Bloková věž (Zelený Jindřich)
In the sloping wall, through the right recess to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Bloková věž (Zelený Jindřich)
2+
Bloková věž (Zelený Jindřich)
Recess in the middle of the inclined slab to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Olé
In the last corner of the E wall, chimney to the balcony. Edge to the left over the BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Olé
By the northeastern edge over BH to the edge of the route "Third Generation" and that (BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Hraniční stěna
By the NE crack to the balcony. By the wall (clocks) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Olé
On the left in the NW wall by crack and edge over BH, (wall book) to the top to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Olé
On the left in the N wall over 2BH to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Olé
In the E wall, through the recess over the BH and wall over the BH (clock on the right) n… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Hraniční stěna
By a short crack to the overgrown balcony and to the left to the ring. By the wall to the… Rock Climbing
5
Hraniční stěna
By the wall near the edge to the ring. By the edge to the balcony and by the wall near… Rock Climbing
5
Hraniční stěna
Through the middle of the E wall by the broken crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Hraniční stěna
By the crack to the bend and the left branch to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Hraniční stěna
Through the middle of the narrow chipped pillar between the overgrown chimney and the… Rock Climbing
4-
Hraniční stěna
By the crack of the adjacent pillar to the top. Rock Climbing

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