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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Hradba (Západní kámen)
Up the left lower edge towards the 'clock' and to the ring. Up the wall close to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Hradba (Západní kámen)
Up the wall along the right edge of the Left Lower Chimney to the footbridge and right to… Rock Climbing
6
Hradba (Západní kámen)
To the right of the Right Lower Chimney, up the wall past 2 rings to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Hradba (Západní kámen)
In the middle of the N wall diagonally to the right to the 1st ring. To the right by the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Hradba (Západní kámen)
In the left part of the north wall. By the wall (drilled hook) and further (ring) onto a… Rock Climbing
5+
Hradba (Západní kámen)
In the right part of the valley wall, through a crack, later to the right by the wall to… Rock Climbing
6
Hradba (Západní kámen)
In the middle of the valley wall over 3 rings into a crack and through it to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Hradba (Západní kámen)
From NE onto a ledge to a ring and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Hradba (Západní kámen)
Up the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Hradba (Západní kámen)
To the right of the lower chimney, go right to the edge. Edge past the ring to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Zelího masiv
By the right blunt valley edge to K. Directly to the top.
2+
Hradba (Západní kámen)
By the left NE corner to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Hradba (Západní kámen)
Rock Climbing
2+
Hradba (Západní kámen)
By the NE corner to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Zelího masiv
By the valley crack to the top.
2
Hradba (Západní kámen)
In the left part of the plateau wall, through a passage and to the right to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Hradba (Západní kámen)
To the left of St. c. by the corner to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Frantova věž (Věž u Malé jehly)
By the blunt S edge over K to the top.
4-
Frantova věž (Věž u Malé jehly)
6
Zelího masiv
By the left valley edge to the top.
6
Zelího masiv
Start from the arrow, to the left of the valley crack by the wall to the top.
2+
Frantova věž (Věž u Malé jehly)
5+
Frantova věž (Věž u Malé jehly)
From the right, by the wall over the overhang to the ring, higher up to the left and by… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Frantova věž (Věž u Malé jehly)
Start in the middle of the NE wall over a ring onto a ledge (belay). From there directly… Rock Climbing
2+
Viklan
SW edge to the top.
5
Frantova věž (Věž u Malé jehly)
4+
Viklan
From the base of the wall in the corner, briefly up and by the wall to K, then to the top.
2+
Frantova věž (Věž u Malé jehly)
By the wall under the rappel to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Schůdná věž
From the uphill side, traverse right into the wide crack and to the saddle between the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Schůdná věž
Up the wide crack in the middle of the SE wall, at the top as the Vosí spára, straight to… Rock Climbing

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