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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+/7-
Schůdná věž
Along the E edge to the ring. Up the edge into the hole (hourglass) and up the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Schůdná věž
From the NW to the foreland and up the fissure to the 1st ring. Up the wall past the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Schůdná věž
St. c. a few meters up, right into the delicate overhanging dihedrals and onto the ledge.… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Schůdná věž
From the NE edge from the blocks, left to the 1st ring. Up the wall (2nd ring) right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Schůdná věž
To the left of the start of St. c., briefly up a crack and left to the ring. Up the crack… Rock Climbing
6-
Schůdná věž
Up the right part of the SE wall via a crack to the ring. Traverse right into the corner… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Schůdná věž
C. Escalator past the 1st bolt to the right edge. Along the edge from the right (BH) and…
7/7+
Schůdná věž
Via the Escalator route to the 2nd ring. Then straight up the wall and over the overhang… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Schůdná věž
From the block of the left valley edge, via 2 bolts under the roof (sling). Rightwards…
8/8+
Schůdná věž
Up the SE wall, left of the Rozloučení route, via 3 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
9+
Schůdná věž
From the 2nd ring of the Šlupkárna route, straight up past a bolt n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
4+
Schůdná věž
St. c. to the block and traverse left down to the crack. Up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Masiv za Večerní věží
Up the right edge, at the top through a corner n. t.
4+
Masiv za Večerní věží
Directly up the left edge n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Masiv za Večerní věží
In the left part of the wall, follow a crack running to the left, traverse right to the… Rock Climbing
3
Sendvič
4-
Honzova věž (Stěna u Papeže)
Center of the south face to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Sendvič
Left wall of the pillar via K n. t.
4+
Honzova věž (Stěna u Papeže)
Left south edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Honzova věž (Stěna u Papeže)
Up the wall over the shelf (clock) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Honzova věž (Stěna u Papeže)
Up the wall below the rappel to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Sendvič
Rightwards along the wall via n. K. n. t.
5+
Honzova věž (Stěna u Papeže)
Narrow valley wall through a ring into a crack and straight to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Honzova věž (Stěna u Papeže)
Up the North wall over the step and hole to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Honzova věž (Stěna u Papeže)
Up the left north edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Papež
Left of the East edge, up the middle of the wall to the ring. Into the hole, higher up… Rock Climbing
4+
Papež
Up the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Honzova věž (Stěna u Papeže)
By the 'sokolík' (a small chimney) and the right lower edge, over the ring directly to… Rock Climbing
4+
Honzova věž (Stěna u Papeže)
Left valley edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Papež
From the block in the S wall onto the SW edge and along it, via the ring, to the top. Rock Climbing

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