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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Věžka
On the right in the North wall, from the corner through holes to the left to the 1st ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Věžka
Using a chimney in the right part of the NW wall upwards and then along the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Sněžnice
Through the center of the wall over the hole (clock) n. t.
5
Požární hadice
Right downhill edge over K n. t.
2+
Pohlednice
From the uphill side, through the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Pohlednice
Through the crack in the downhill wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Klekánice (Enzo Lorenzo)
Jump from the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Klekánice (Enzo Lorenzo)
From Pohlednice (Postcard), short descent and step over to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Pohlednice
NW edge to the shelf, traverse right and through the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Pohlednice
NE corner to the block and edge over the ring and clock to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Klekánice (Enzo Lorenzo)
SW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Danger
7/7+
Pohlednice
S wall directly over the ring (clock) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Klekánice (Enzo Lorenzo)
Via "Across the Ribs" to the shelf, traverse right to the edge into the downhill edge,… Rock Climbing
4+
Klekánice (Enzo Lorenzo)
Through the center of the SW wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Klekánice (Enzo Lorenzo)
First by opposition, higher up the uphill edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Klekánice (Enzo Lorenzo)
Right edge of the uphill wall n. v.
3
Klekánice (Enzo Lorenzo)
Left downhill edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Klekánice (Enzo Lorenzo)
Uphill route to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Soyombo
Via a chimney (sling) to a bolt and through a notch n. t.
4-
Osamělá jehla (Panenka)
From the left, up the SE edge to under the overhang. Left traverse and up the SW edge n.… Rock Climbing
4+
Osamělá jehla (Panenka)
Description missing, climbing prohibited due to instability of the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Soyombo
Directly through the left part n. t.
5+
Soyombo
Up the wall right of the edge over a bolt n. t.
2+
Soyombo
Via a crack n. t.
4-
Soyombo
Along the right edge over a bolt n. t.
5+
Lesní věž
From the valley side, via a crack to a large platform. Right up the wall along the edge… Rock Climbing
6-
Lesní věž
Right in the West face, via a rib and wall to a ring and around the "Old route" ramp to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Lesní věž
From the 3rd bolt along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Lesní věž
In the NW face, a chimney and left along the edge to a ring. Along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Lesní věž
Right in the valley face over the 3rd bolt n. v. Rock Climbing

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