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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Lesní věž
From the upper side, a short wall to a large platform. Left along the West edge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Předskalí lesní věže
Left in the North face to the 'stoves' and right to the 1st bolt, then via a crack (sling…
3
Lesní věž
West edge over rounded bulges to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Lesní věž
Up the corner to the platform (1st ring). Along the edge under the overhang and along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Lesní věž
From the upper side, over steps to the eastern balcony and left over a sloping short ramp…
?
Předskalí lesní věže
Through the center of the West face over a bolt n. t.
3
Lesní věž
From the upper side, a short wall to a large platform. Left along the West edge to the… Rock Climbing
3
Pirát
Right in the East face via a crack n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Pirát
From the valley, starting at the SHIP'S PIPE, through a crack under the overhang to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Pirát
On the right in the S wall from the corner up the wide crack to the balcony. Right to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Pirát
Left of route a) climb the corner and edge to the ring. Then up the edge and wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Pirát
Through the center of the East face via a narrow crack n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Pirát
Left from the S corner. Up the narrow crack to the balcony diagonally to the right and on… Rock Climbing
5+
Fróna
From the ring of the route 'Trnová koruna' (Crown of Thorns) go right under the overhang… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Lodní trouba
On the left from the massif, jump or (fall - I. ) to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Lodní trouba
Climb the left arete to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Lodní trouba
Climb the left overhanging edge past the ring to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Lodní trouba
Up the chimney between the tower and the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Lodní trouba
On the right side of the arete wall, climb through the holes to the ring. Right on the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Lodní trouba
Up the center of the overhanging wall via small cracks and the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Fróna
Climb the west edge to the ring. Right through the crack to the top.
5
Fróna
Climb the left overhanging edge before the ring to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Fróna
From the SE edge, traverse to the hourglass and then further to the hand crack.
5
Fróna
Climb the arete to the top (unprotected). Rock Climbing
4+
Fróna
On the right in the overhanging wall, climb the edge to the ring. Left to the center of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Serbus
In the right part of the wall, up the narrow chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Serbus
In the right part of the wall, diagonally right to the ledge to the ring. Up the wall and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Serbus
From the center of the wall, up the diagonal crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Serbus
Climb the left edge of the overhanging wall, passing 2 rings to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Serbus
In the left part of the wall, diagonally right to the 1st ring. Up the wall and crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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