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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Červená houska
Up the middle of the pillar to the K. overhang and edge, then don't top out.
6
Červená houska
Up the middle of the pillar (ring). Over the overhang and the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Lexikon
Up the right valley edge to the balcony (sling). Straight over Dach and the blunt edge to…
4-
Lexikon
From the south, up the deep chimney, then up the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Lexikon
From the inner space between Čaroděj (Wizard) and Polednice (Noon Witch) up the crack and… Rock Climbing
4+
Lexikon
In the valley wall, up the hand crack to the pillar. Right to the K. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Lexikon
On the East face, up the edge over the overhang to the ring and directly up the wall … Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Lexikon
In the middle of the valley wall, right of Roudnická tombola, a long corner and crack… Rock Climbing
4-
Lexikon
Briefly follow the route Vzhůru do nebe (Up to Heaven) and right along the crack to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Lexikon
From the south at the entrance to the chimney between Čaroděj (Wizard) and Lexikon, use a… Rock Climbing
4-
Lexikon
Left over the piled-up blocks into the crack and up it to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Polední jehla
From the upland side, up the wall to the nose and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Polední jehla
4+
Polední jehla
Through the crack in the valley wall (from the birch tree) to its end and along the edge… Rock Climbing
2+
Polední jehla
From the upland side traverse left to the valley edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Polední jehla
Through the center of the small upland wall upwards and through a short crack (loop) n. v.
5
Polední jehla
2
Citrónek
From the saddle along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
2+
Citrónek
From the upland edge to the right and along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Citrónek
From the south of the block diagonally right through the wall to the ring. Along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Citrónek
Through the center of the north wall past the ring n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Citrónek
Through the left part of the north wall (clock), left into the valley wall to the ring of… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Rybí oko
Up the left downward-sloping edge (hourglass), no variation. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
2+
Autoškola
Diagonally left along the rib, no traverse.
4+
Autoškola
Through the center of the north side, up the face to a ring and further, no variation.
2
Autoškola
From W along the ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Autoškola
From W by chimney, no traverse.
3
Autoškola
On the left in the north face, over a step and along the edge, no traverse.
3
Autoškola
From SW over the overhang and corner, no traverse.
4-
Autoškola
On the right in the downward-sloping face, via a crack, no traverse.

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