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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2
Březová
Up the northwest edge to the right to the top.
4+
Havana
Up the southeast edge to the ledges and up the wall to the top.
4+
Březová
Up the downward-facing edge (anchor) to the top.
4-
Březová
On the right side of the south face, up the wall and the rib to the ledge, to the right…
5+
Věž u cesty
In the middle of the west face, over the oblique ledge to the pitons. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Věž u cesty
Along the route "Smugglers' Path" to the pitons. To the right over the overhang to the… Rock Climbing
3
Věž u cesty
From the west side, traverse to the right to the edge and to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Věž u cesty
Up the crack from the north to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Věž u cesty
Up the crack from the west to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Havana
Up the west face from the northwest to the top.
5
Havana
Up the east face under the overhang and to the right to the top (descent point).
6
Věž u cesty
In the south face, through an overhanging crack, higher up a rib to the 1st anchor. Over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Věž u cesty
To the left of Seven Somersaults, over the wall through a hole to the anchor. Over the…
5+
Věž u cesty
To the right of the route "Let it be!" by a recess and the wall into the alcove, traverse… Rock Climbing
5+
Věž u cesty
In the SE wall by a crack to a hole and traverse leftwards to the 1st bolt. Upwards to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Věž u cesty
Between the routes Seven Somersaults and Dobešová, over the overhang to the ledge (1st…
7-/7
Věž u cesty
By the rounded overhanging SE edge directly to the 1st bolt of the route "Let it be!". By…
5+
Věž u cesty
To the right of the west crack under the overhang (old pitons). To the left to the anchor… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Věž u cesty
To the right of the SE edge by the overhanging wall to the 1st bolt. Upwards to the hole… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Věž u cesty
By a wide crack in the downhill E wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Věž u cesty
From the NE into the chimney and by it n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Věž u cesty
To the left of the downhill crack, over holes and an oblique fissure to the bolt. By the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Černý bivak (Německý bivak)
From the slope in the W wall traverse to the ledge to the hourglass. By the wall over 2…
2
Černý bivak (Německý bivak)
From the southern massif, a jump n. v.
4-
Černý bivak (Německý bivak)
By the right crack in the W wall n. v.
2+
Černý bivak (Německý bivak)
From the W side by cracks n. v.
4+
Černý bivak (Německý bivak)
By the left downhill edge to the bolt and by the wall along the edge to the balcony,…
5
Černý bivak (Německý bivak)
By the smoky edge to the balcony. Rightwards and by a crack over the bolt n. v.
2+
Černý bivak (Německý bivak)
4-
Černý bivak (Německý bivak)
On the left in the uphill side (S wall) via K n. v.

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