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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Neznámá věž
In the middle of the W wall, chimney over a wedged block to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Březový roh
Rock Climbing
4+
Březový roh
Rock Climbing
3
Březový roh
Rock Climbing
4-
Březový roh
Rock Climbing
4-
Březový roh
Rock Climbing
4-
Březový roh
In the V wall, overhanging crack n. v.
Přeskok
Koutová věž
From the massif, a jump n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Stěna veverek
From the bivouac, up the right overhanging edge, past K n. t.
5
Stěna veverek
At the beginning of the ledge to the bivouac, up the wall past K n. t.
3
Stěna veverek
From the access ledge to the bivouac, up the crack in the center of the wall n. t.
4+
Stěna veverek
Left from the bivouac, up the wall past K n. v.
6
Stěna veverek
From the bivouac, up the left overhanging edge, past K n. t.
5
Stěna veverek
From the north, near the approach to the bivouac, up the overhanging wall and rib to the…
5+
Stěna veverek
From the bivouac, up the overhanging corner, past K n. t.
5+
Trojhránek
Up the wall from the bivouac, past K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Trojhránek
Up the north corner n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Trojhránek
From the north corner, right to K. Up the wall along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Strážce bivaku
Up the south wall (sloping ledge on the left), past the ring, up the wall n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
4+
Věž nad cestou
In the right part of the valley wall, up the indistinct corner below the overhang.… Rock Climbing
5+
Trojhránek
Up the south wall n. v. (K) Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Trojhránek
Up the corner crack n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Stěna nad cestou
Through the center of the south wall, past the ring, to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Věž nad cestou
Up the wide crack below the rappel point to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Ukrytá stěna
On the left in the S wall to the K. Overhang n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Věž nad cestou
Left of the upper crack, up the wall to K. Up the wall along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Ukrytá stěna
Through the center of the S wall (clock) to the K. Wall into a V-hollow and higher up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Ukrytá stěna
Right in the east wall by a crack n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Ukrytá stěna
In the W wall, crack and corner n. v. Rock Climbing
2+
Ukrytá stěna
On the left in the E wall, along the ledge to the right into a wide hollow. On the right… Rock Climbing

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