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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Lesní vyhlídka
To the right of Balkónová věž. Via a fine crack to the 1st bolt. Across the face over a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Balkónová věž
On the right in the NE face, along the edge to the 1st bolt. Across the face to a smaller… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Balkónová věž
In the NE face, via an overhanging crack to the 1st bolt. Across the face to a ledge at… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Balkónová věž
At the base of the South face, on the right via a rib over an overhang to the 1st bolt.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Balkónová věž
From the inner space, along the edge past a bolt. Rock Climbing
3
Balkónová věž
To the left of the route 'Závěje času', via an overhanging corner to the large balcony,… Rock Climbing
4+
Balkónová věž
Along the East edge, from left to right upwards to a ring. Via a crack to a large balcony… Rock Climbing
4-
Balkónová věž
From the West from the bivouac, traverse over the overhang to the right to the East edge.… Rock Climbing
3
Balkónová věž
Up the corner crack in the right part of the northwest (valley) face, later along the… Rock Climbing
5
Balkónová věž
Through the center of the northwest face to the ring. Up the wall and chimney onto the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Vykousnutá věžička
From the bivouac, traverse the corner to the platform and right of the 'Easy Route', up…
5+
Balkónová věž
In the NE face, via an overhanging corner past a bolt to a large balcony. Then follow the… Rock Climbing
5
Balkónová věž
From the balcony under the overhang, traverse left and along the East edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Balkónová věž
From the space between the tower and the 'Bitten' tower, follow the wetness via K to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Balkónová věž
From the east, through the narrow passage over the threshold to the bivouac. Right onto… Rock Climbing
4+
Vykousnutá věžička
From the north, take the old route to the Balcony Tower, on the left at the bivouac,…
4+
Rozcestník
On the left, up the east face, corner to the top.
2+
Vykousnutá věžička
From the platform, traverse left to the crack.
2+
Vykousnutá věžička
From the platform, up the short chimney to the summit.
4+
Rozcestník
Up the corner crack to the ledge, traverse to the slings (belay). Up the wall via K to…
5
Rozcestník
On the right in the wall, via K to the slings (belay).
2+
Vykousnutá věžička
From the saddle by the Balcony Tower, a short descent along the edge to the ledge and up…
4-
Vykousnutá věžička
A little below the upper saddle of the Balcony Tower, traverse to the edge. Along the…
3
Kóta 7
On the right in the wall, up the chimney with the large wedged block to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kóta 7
Up the crack in the middle of the slab to the ring, over the overhang to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Kóta 7
In the narrow east face, follow the left crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Kóta 7
In the narrow east face, follow the right crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kóta 7
On the left in the valley face, diagonally right to the 1st bolt. Difficultly to the rib… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Friedrich Gröpler Wand
Through the center of the east face via K. to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Friedrich Gröpler Wand
Through the center of the north face via a crack to K. Wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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