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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

?
Friedrich Gröpler Wand
Far right in the north face, follow the crack to the saddle. Rock Climbing
1
Kóta 7
Left of the crack, a traverse into the larger chimney and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Friedrich Gröpler Wand
From the balcony on the left in the north face, drop into the face and left to the edge.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
?
Friedrich Gröpler Wand
In the right part of the north face, from the boulder, climb the wall to the crack and… Rock Climbing
5
Friedrich Gröpler Wand
On the right in the south face, diagonally right to the balcony. Along the wall by the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Friedrich Gröpler Wand
A wide crack in the middle of the south wall to K. Through the middle of the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Friedrich Gröpler Wand
To the left in the south wall, a short chimney to the balcony. Up the wall over K to the… Rock Climbing
2
Pivní kámen
From the block in the south, step over and up the wall to the summit.
2
Pivní kámen
To the left of the Old Path to the balcony and by the gully to the summit.
2+
Friedrich Gröpler Wand
Completely to the left in the south wall into the deep chimney and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Vinný kámen
From the overgrown balcony on the north side, right to the point and right around the…
3
Vinný kámen
On the SW corner, left onto the sloping Slab and left along it to the crack. Take it to…
2
Vinný kámen
Along the SE edge to the summit.
4-
Vinný kámen
To the right in the east wall, a short crack and up the wall to the summit.
2+
Vinný kámen
To the left in the east wall, near the gully to the summit.
2+
Pivní kámen
To the right in the west wall, by a double chimney to the summit.
5
Teniska
To the right of St. c. with a chimney and higher up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Teniska
To the left of the valley path, over the overhang into the crack, and up to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Teniska
To the right in the valley wall to the ring. Right along the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Teniska
Along the SW edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Dvojitá hlava
From the fore-rock via chimney over the overhang and face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Teniska
Right in the upland face, via crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Teniska
Completely right in the (north) face to the summit. Rock Climbing
?
Dvojitá hlava
From the abseil point of the Last Tower, jump to the step and further along the Old Route. Rock Climbing
5+
Teniska
Via the face below the abseil point directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Dvojitá hlava
Through the center of the south face to the ring, over the ring of the route "Everyday… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Dvojitá hlava
In the SW edge via the crack over the hourglass and overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Dvojitá hlava
Along the SE edge around the hole to the ledge. Right and along the NE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Dvojitá hlava
Left in the upland (south) face via chimney and face to the ring. Via the gully to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Dvojitá hlava
Right in the upland (south) face directly to the crack and along it under the overhang.… Rock Climbing

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