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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Zarostlá stěna
Up the crack to K and the rib to the top.
2+
Bránička
From the left upper edge, traverse right (or directly up the wall) to the recess in the S… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Bránička
In the lower left part of the wall, over 2 rings to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Zarostlá stěna
Up the recess in the wall to K. Via the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Zarostlá stěna
In the left part of the N face, over the ring to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Zarostlá stěna
Up the crack in the NW edge behind the rib to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Zarostlá stěna
Left into the W crack and up it to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Zarostlá stěna
Up the overhanging SW edge using the rib, left to the ring. Right into the recess and up… Rock Climbing
4+
Zarostlá stěna
In the right part of the N face, delicate hand-jamming and up the wall to the crack. Up… Rock Climbing
5+
Zarostlá stěna
Up the center of the wall to the ledge. Up the overhanging corner (sling) to its end and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Zarostlá stěna
From Habešanka. Rock Climbing
6
Zarostlá stěna
Directly up the wall to the first ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Zarostlá stěna
The route leads under the rappel. Up the wall to the hole and to the ring. Diagonally… Rock Climbing
2+
Zarostlá stěna
Up the chimney in the center of the S face to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Zarostlá stěna
From the start of route J, slightly right up the fading crack, higher up via the chimney… Rock Climbing
2+
Zarostlá stěna
Up the chimney in the right part of the S face to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Zarostlá stěna
Up the crack in the left part of the S face into a recess that turns into a chimney, and… Rock Climbing
6-
Zarostlá stěna
From the ring, left and up the rounded edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Zarostlá stěna
Up the crack and hand-jamming under the large overhang to the first ring. Over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Zarostlá stěna
In the left part of the N face, along the edge towards the clock. Up the right crack to… Rock Climbing
4+
Zarostlá stěna
From the South, chimneying between the tower and the main block to a hole. Right into the… Rock Climbing
5
Zarostlá stěna
On the SE edge, hand-jamming to the ring. Hand-jamming, higher up on the right towards… Rock Climbing
5+
Zarostlá stěna
Through the center of the N face directly to the ring. Up the wall to the ledge (clock)… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Zarostlá stěna
Up the S chimney briefly, traverse right to the start of the wide crack and up it to the… Rock Climbing
6
Zarostlá stěna
From the 1st ring (K) c. Police Morning, up the wall to the right to a ring (K). Left and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Zarostlá stěna
In the right part of the S face, chimneying to the ring. Diagonally right up the crack… Rock Climbing
6-
Zarostlá stěna
Through the center of the E wall and diagonally right to a ring (K). Directly to the 2nd… Rock Climbing
4-
Zarostlá stěna
Up the chimney briefly and left to a balcony. Over an overhang into a crack and follow it… Rock Climbing
6-
Zarostlá stěna
Up the chimney briefly and left to a ledge. Then in the right part of the wall, past an… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Zarostlá stěna
In the left part of the S wall, into a chimney and to the summit. Rock Climbing

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