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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Dvojitá hlava
In the left part of the northern valley face, via cracks to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Dvojitá hlava
Between the towers, via cracks to the large ledge below the summit, where the route joins… Rock Climbing
5+
Dvojitá hlava
In the right part of the valley face, through the hole into the crack and higher up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Dvojitá hlava
From the gully, traverse left around the west edge to the ledge. Left to the crack, up… Rock Climbing
5
Habešanka
4-
Habešanka
In the south side, via the face to the balcony of the west edge, partially slightly left…
2+
Dvojitá hlava
From the west, via chimney to the large balcony, higher up like the Old Route to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Habešanka
3
Dvojitá hlava
Following the Old Route to the large ledge. Along the NW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Mrzák
From the West edge over the overhang into the face and diagonally right to the ring. Up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Mrzák
From the ring of the Upper Route, left to the edge and along it over the alcove to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Mrzák
Center of the lower face, over the ring onto the ledge to the ring of the Old Route. Up… Rock Climbing
4+
Mrzák
From the edge directly, or on the right side of the lower face over the overhang and a… Rock Climbing
4+
Mrzák
Traverse from the slope to the right to the wide ledge to the ring. Up the old route to… Rock Climbing
5
Mrzák
From the saddle to the ring, up the crack to the horizontal notch and up the face to the… Rock Climbing
5
Mrzák
Traverse right along the horizontal notch to St. c. (Old Route). Rock Climbing
4+
Mrzák
From the ring diagonally left to the 'clocks' near the NE edge, higher right to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Panenská věž
Up the corner in the left part of the lower wall, above the overhang to the ring.… Rock Climbing
5
Panenská věž
By climbing onto the right upper edge and up it to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Panenská věž
Center of the lower wall to the 'clocks' and to the ring. Up the face directly to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Panenská věž
In the upper face, left to the edge and to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Panenská věž
Up the corner in the East face under the overhang. Traverse in the holes to the crack. Up… Rock Climbing
5+
Panenská věž
Center of the face (below the rappel) to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Panenská věž
Up the face in the left part of the lower wall directly to the ring and up the 'Hungry… Rock Climbing
4+
Panenská věž
Up the NW edge and the crack to the right to the balcony. Up the old route to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Panenská věž
On the right in the lower wall, up the smooth face directly to the balcony to the 'clocks… Rock Climbing
4-
Bránička
Up the corner in the south face to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Bránička
Up the crack in the center of the valley-facing wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Bránička
Up the upper edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Bránička
Up the right upper edge, over a ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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