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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6. Elbe Valley – right bank 4366 routes 1. Ostrov 3754 routes 9. Bohemian Switzerland NP 2966 routes 3. Tisá 2935 routes 7. Elbe Valley – left bank 2409 routes 2. Rájec 1595 routes 8. Bohemian Switzerland 1203 routes 5. Bělá 1012 routes 4. Děčínský Sněžník 753 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
2
Ukrytá stěna
From the saddle from the south, small wall and in the W slope n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Ukrytá stěna
In the W wall, diagonally to the left to the NW edge to the 1st K. Edge and wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Služebna
Cheerful revenge to the 2nd overhang and traverse left to K. in the hollow n. v.
6
Ukrytá stěna
Route Against the wind to the 1st K. Diagonally left under the ceiling. Directly over it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Služebna
Narrow downhill wall to the 1st K. , crack over 2 overhangs (clock) to the 2nd K. Edge n.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Služebna
On the left in the wall n. v.
5+
Bouřková věž
On the right in the S wall, crack and wall to K. wall to the right n. v.
4+
Bouřková věž
To the right of the Old Route, small wall at the edge n. v.
5+
Bouřková věž
On the left in the S wall, a short crack, above the wall over K n. v.
2+
Služebna
From the east, a short wall n. v.
5+
Služebna
On the left in the W wall, crack (clock) to the K. wall n. v.
2+
Bouřková věž
2
Bouřková věž
2+
Bouřková věž
3
Bouřková věž
4-
Johanův klobouk
Wide crack in the south wall n. v.
3
Johanův klobouk
To the right of the Old Route, edge n. v.
2
Bouřková věž
From E with a step and chimney n. v.
5
Johanův klobouk
On the left in the downhill wall, on a step to the K. At the edge n. v.
2
Johanův klobouk
From the West edge to a shelf, diagonally left across the North face and edge.
3
Johanův klobouk
Wall to the right from the S crack n. v.
3
Johanův klobouk
Crack in the center of the S wall n. v.
4+
Johanův klobouk
On the right in the downhill wall, crack to the K. wall at the edge n. v.
2+
Lesní vyhlídka
In the right part of the face, up the chimney. Rock Climbing
2+
Balkónová věž
5
Lesní vyhlídka
From the space between 'Borovička', in the center of the face past a bolt. Rock Climbing
2+
Lesní vyhlídka
Up the left chimney. Rock Climbing
3
Lesní vyhlídka
To the left of the chimney, along the edge. Rock Climbing
5
Lesní vyhlídka
From the wedged block, via a rib to a crack (hourglass) and up it. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Lesní vyhlídka
From the adjacent block, along a subtle edge past a bolt. Rock Climbing

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