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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Černý bivak (Německý bivak)
By a small eastern wall to the hourglass. Traverse left to the 1st bolt. Cross over the…
2+
Černý bivak (Německý bivak)
By the uphill edge, higher to the left over the step to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Černý bivak (Německý bivak)
From the bivouac cross the chimney to the ledge (belay). Crack to the 1st bolt. Oblique…
5
Zeleňák
In the valley face, up the edge and the wall n. v.
2+
Separatista
Up the SW crack n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Separatista
Center of the W face n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Separatista
Up the SE edge and the wall to the right n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Separatista
Center of the S face n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Separatista
From NW to the balcony and briefly up the small wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Neznámá věž
Right of the W corner, by a chimney via K to the balcony and up the wall n. v.
5+
Neznámá věž
SW edge over a circle n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Neznámá věž
5
Neznámá věž
On the W, by a chimney past 2K, up the crack above n. v.
2+
Neznámá věž
Center of the S face to the right and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Neznámá věž
4-
Neznámá věž
Overhanging start to the edge and along it n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Neznámá věž
Through the middle of the V wall, left half of the tower, through a hole to K. Through a… Rock Climbing
4-
Neznámá věž
Center of the S face via K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Neznámá věž
2+
Neznámá věž
4-
Neznámá věž
5+
Neznámá věž
On the right in the V wall, short chimney and crack to the pillar (K on the right).… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Neznámá věž
From the NW wall, over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Neznámá věž
Left valley edge to the 1st ring, diagonally right through a hole to the 2nd ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4+
Neznámá věž
With a chimney to halfway and traverse to the left to K. Crack n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Březový roh
Rock Climbing
6-
Březový roh
Through the middle of the highland wall, overhanging wall to K and smooth gully n. v.
5+
Březový roh
On the right in the Highland wall over K n. v.
3
Neznámá věž
On the left in the W wall, crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Neznámá věž

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