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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Papež
Through the crack in the right part of the north wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Papež
Directly up the wall into the crack to the ring. Rock Climbing
4-
Papež
Through the middle of the left West wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Papež
In the SW wall, via holes, slightly right to the ring. Diagonally right and then c. - var… Rock Climbing
5+
Papež
Up the S edge to the 'clock', right and up the crack to the ring. Up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Papež
Up the left northern (S) edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Papež
From K (Cesta Věřících), left around the edge, traverse into the S wall, and up it.
3
Papež
Through the chimney from the lower side (possible also a traverse from the upper side)… Rock Climbing
5+
Volský kámen
From the left, up the wall to the 1st K, directly over the 2nd K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Volská stěna
5+
Volský kámen
On the left in the downhill wall, over 2K directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Volská stěna
2+
Volská stěna
Crack on the uphill side.
3
Volská jehla
In the west wall, up the small crack and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Volská jehla
From the base of the downhill wall, up the wall, higher up along the left edge to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Volská stěna
4-
Volská stěna
4-
Volská stěna
3
Volská jehla
Briefly up the rib of the Old Route, then up the wall to the left, over the balcony to… Rock Climbing
3
Volská jehla
Southeast edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Volská jehla
From the uphill side, right along the rib, higher to the right. Up the wall along the… Rock Climbing
4+
Adventní neděle
In the downhill wall, using a short ramp to the 1st K. Upwards and to the left on the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Adventní neděle
On the right in the East wall, briefly through a crack to a small ledge, traverse to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Adventní neděle
Through the crack intersecting the East wall across K, n. v. (no translation). Rock Climbing
3
Věžka
From the South fore-rock to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Věžka
In the downhill wall, through a wide crack to the platform. To the right to the edge and… Rock Climbing
2+
Adventní neděle
Completely on the left in the East wall via a double crack, n. v. (no translation). Rock Climbing
3
Adventní neděle
Through the left crack in the East wall, n. v. (no translation). Rock Climbing
3
Věžka
On the Southern fore-rock and along the left (West) edge to the summit. Rock Climbing

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