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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Hraniční stěna
In the right part of the E wall to the 1st ring. By a fine crack to the bend, by a crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Hraniční stěna
On the right in the E wall of the left block by the double crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Žabovřesky
In the middle of the S wall by liebacking and rolling over to the top.
2+
Hraniční stěna
By the wide left crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Žabovřesky
Through the middle of the north wall to the clocks. Straight to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Hraniční stěna
By the wide right crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Hraniční stěna
By the left edge of the narrow pillar to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Hraniční stěna
Through the middle of the wall of the narrow pillar over the ring to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Hradba (Západní kámen)
To the right of St. c. in the corner under the overhang. Rightwards into the chimney and… Rock Climbing
5+
Hradba (Západní kámen)
Up the center of the upper wall using cracks to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Hradba (Západní kámen)
Up the corner in the Náhorní cesta route to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Hradba (Západní kámen)
In the right part of the upper wall, along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Hradba (Západní kámen)
Up the corner to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Hradba (Západní kámen)
To the right of Koutová c., up the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Hradba (Západní kámen)
In the right part of the upper wall, up the left crack to the top. Rock Climbing
?
Hradba (Západní kámen)
Between Hravá cesta and Náhorní spára, up the center of the pillar n. v.
5
Hradba (Západní kámen)
To the right of Zalomené c., up the crack along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Hradba (Západní kámen)
Between two corners in the SW wall along the edge and left into the crack. Up the crack… Rock Climbing Spare Route
3
Hradba (Západní kámen)
Up the right corner in the SW wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Hradba (Západní kámen)
Up the crack through the center of the upper left part to the holes. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
5
Hradba (Západní kámen)
In the upper left part of the SW wall, on the right in the wall, along the edge to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Hradba (Západní kámen)
To the left of the Velký kout (Great Corner) up the overhanging crack, above the overhang… Rock Climbing
4+
Hradba (Západní kámen)
Up the edge below the rappel station to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Hradba (Západní kámen)
Up the long corner to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Hradba (Západní kámen)
On the right in the SW wall, up the smooth wall into the crack and up that to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Hradba (Západní kámen)
Up the wall to the right of the Long Edge, through the crack to the 1st ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Hradba (Západní kámen)
Up the crack to the right of the Komáří c. corner to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Hradba (Západní kámen)
Center of the lower wall (between two chimneys) past the ring to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Hradba (Západní kámen)
Up the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Hradba (Západní kámen)
To the left of the "Long Edge", up the wall around the hole to K. Up the wall, rib and… Rock Climbing

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