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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Listonoš
From a large hole into a crack and through it over a bolt (K) upwards. Rock Climbing
5
Listonoš
Up the wall of the narrow pillar to a bolt (K) and through a crack upwards. Rock Climbing
4-
Listonoš
Through the left crack in the SW wall upwards. Rock Climbing
4-
Listonoš
Through the center of the pillar in the SW wall over a bolt (K) upwards. Rock Climbing
5
Listonoš
Through the crack to the right below the rappel station upwards. Rock Climbing
6-
Listonoš
In the SW wall, through a crack to a bolt (K), to the left through a hole to the 2nd bolt… Rock Climbing
3
Listonoš
Through the right crack in the SW wall upwards. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Listonoš
In the right part of the SW wall from a boulder over 3 bolts (BH) upwards. Rock Climbing
6-
Listonoš
In the right part of the West wall, a salty overhanging crack into a hole and a… Rock Climbing
5
Listonoš
Up the wall of the narrow pillar over a bolt (K) upwards. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Listonoš
Left of the route "Gasping Step", overhanging wall through a hole and 2 bolts (bh),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Listonoš
Through a deep corner in the SW wall into an overhanging crack and through it upwards. Rock Climbing
5
Listonoš
From the block below the SW wall slightly to the left to a bolt (K) and upwards. Rock Climbing
5
Ostříží masív
In the corner on the left in the valley wall to a ledge to a bolt (K) and along the edge… Rock Climbing
4-
Parník Primátor Ditrich
Through the center of the pillar in the left part of the massif upwards. Rock Climbing
4-
Parník Primátor Ditrich
Through a crack in the left part of the massif upwards. Rock Climbing
4+
Parník Primátor Ditrich
In the right part of the South wall into a small chimney and up through it. Rock Climbing
5+
Parník Primátor Ditrich
In the left part of the South wall over a bolt (K) and along the edge upwards. Rock Climbing
5+
Parník Primátor Ditrich
Through the center of the valley pillar over a bolt (K) upwards. Rock Climbing
4-
Aicha (Ajša)
Through the left part of the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Aicha (Ajša)
Through the center of the West overhanging face n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Ostříží masív
From the BH to the right into the crack and along it n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Ostříží masív
To the left of the Berbere z prdele route to the BH and from it directly n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Ostříží masív
By the right edge of the valley face to the ring and up the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Aicha (Ajša)
In the right part of the wall, by a crack n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Palička
In the left part of the West face, overhang into a crack, along it to the right to an… Rock Climbing
4+
Palička
By a corner and a crack n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Palička
Through the center of the valley face into a hole to K and a crack n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Aicha (Ajša)
Through the center of the valley face over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Aicha (Ajša)
In the right part of the SE valley overhanging face, into a hole. Then to the left to the… Rock Climbing

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