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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Pírečko
Up the center of the valley wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Lidský masiv
From the slope via the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Lidský masiv
Via the NW edge over K to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Lidský masiv
Right in the S wall, by wall and crack over K n.v. Rock Climbing
3
Lidský masiv
By the left crack in the center of the wall n.v. Rock Climbing
4+
Lidský masiv
From the large block, by a narrow wall over K n.v. Rock Climbing
5
Lidský masiv
In the right part of the wall through the hole Rock Climbing
4-
Lidský masiv
In the right part of the wall into the recess and n.v. Rock Climbing
3
Lidský masiv
By the right crack in the center of the wall n.v. Rock Climbing
5+
Jezevčí skála
By NW edge over K, upwards. Rock Climbing
5+
Jezevčí skála
Right of the route "Nora", by wall over 2 K, upwards. Rock Climbing
4+
Jezevčí skála
Completely left in the North wall, along the edge, upwards. Rock Climbing
4+
Jezevčí skála
By the left crack, upwards. Rock Climbing
4+
Jezevčí skála
By the right crack in the West wall to the top of the small pillar and right by another… Rock Climbing
5
Jezevčí skála
By crack to a small balcony and left by cracks to another balcony to K. Over a prominent… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Jezevčí skála
By the left crack and higher by corner, upwards. Rock Climbing
4-
Jezevčí skála
By "Jiřík's Vision" to a ledge and by hand crack in the notch, upwards. Rock Climbing
3
Jezevčí skála
Right of the large hole in the valley wall, into the corner and up it, upwards. Rock Climbing
6-
Jezevčí skála
In the right part of the SW wall, over a hole to the 1st K, then by wall over the 2nd K,… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Jezevčí skála
Start via route "Fight for the Trough" for about 3m, then right onto the edge and up over… Rock Climbing
5
Jezevčí skála
From the center of the wall, right into the crack and up it, upwards. Rock Climbing
6-
Krkavčí dráp
Right in the North wall, via overhang to K and along the edge, upwards. Rock Climbing
6-
Jezevčí skála
In the right part of the South wall, into a hole and over 2 BH, upwards. Rock Climbing
5
Krkavčí dráp
Left in the North wall, by overhanging crack, upwards. Rock Climbing
4-
Jezevčí skála
By wall along the edge in the South wall, upwards. Rock Climbing
5+
Jezevčí skála
In the left part of the South wall, into a hole and to the 1st K. Below it, left onto the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Krkavčí dráp
By crack in a narrow pillar of the valley wall, over K and overhang, upwards. Rock Climbing
4+
Krkavčí dráp
In the right part of the S face via the arete to K and to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Krkavčí dráp
Left of the "Valley Crack", left to K and along the edge, upwards. Rock Climbing
4+
Krkavčí dráp
From a block in the valley wall, step over and by crack, upwards. Rock Climbing

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