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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Kamzičí bobek
Overhang, in the right part of the S wall, left of the left plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Danger
2+
Pavlina věž
In the N wall, right over a large balcony to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Strážce Chřibské Kamenice
In the SE wall, through the crack over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Věž Pavlina údolí
From the chimney, traverse diagonally right along the S wall into a corner, through it… Rock Climbing
2+
Věž Pavlina údolí
From the saddle on the N side of the tower, traverse right to an overgrown plateau.… Rock Climbing
3
Věž Pavlina údolí
From the path, take the left crack to a large balcony, then right through the crack and… Rock Climbing
2+
Věž Pavlina údolí
From the W to the saddle on the N side of the tower. Through the chimney and over the… Rock Climbing
4+
Strážce Chřibské Kamenice
From the saddle via opposition to the E edge onto the platform. Up the wall and crack to… Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce Chřibské Kamenice
Left of the Old Route chimney via the crack and corner to the platform and via the Old… Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce Chřibské Kamenice
Via the gully in the W wall to the niche (also traverse right from the saddle here), via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Herkulův sloupek
Along the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Strážce Chřibské Kamenice
In the plateau wall into the gully and up that to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Mostková věž
From the massif, descend, via the overhang into the Old Route and up that to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Mostková věž
From the massif, traverse to the center of the plateau wall and up that to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Mostková věž
Right in the E wall via the crack to a horizontal ledge and right via a wide crack,… Rock Climbing
2+
Mostková věž
From W via the chimney between the tower and the massif, higher up the wall diagonally… Rock Climbing
2+
Mostková věž
From E via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Mostková věž
Left in the E wall via a diagonal crack and over an overhang, higher up right to the ring… Rock Climbing
3
Mlynář Griesel
Along the left edge of the valley wall to the balcony, traverse left and up the wall to… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Rumburská věž
From the block at the right valley edge, up the wall over the ring to the overhang,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Mlynář Griesel
Via the plateau wall (by climbing up) to the balcony and right as "Old Route" to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Rumburská věž
Along the NW edge (left valley edge) to the 'clocks' (pitons) into the notch, traverse… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Mlynář Griesel
From the plateau along the right edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Mlynář Griesel
Through the notch in the left plateau edge, traverse into the recess, through it and the… Rock Climbing
5
Rumburská věž
Along the NE edge, higher up through the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Vstupní brána
To the left in the S wall through the hole to K. To the right along the crack n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Rumburská věž
In the middle of the upper wall, building up to the 'clocks' (pitons) and traverse left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Rumburská věž
From the first 'clocks' (pitons) slightly diagonally left and up the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Vstupní brána
Briefly along the edge to the step, via the small pinnacle, later through the crack n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Vstupní brána
Overhanging NW edge over K n. v. Rock Climbing

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