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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Jubilejní kámen
m left of Drážďanská cesta (Dresden Way) up a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Jubilejní kámen
m left of the W edge up a diagonal crack, higher up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Jubilejní kámen
Completely left in the W wall up a crack to the ledge under the overhang, over it up a… Rock Climbing
4-
Jubilejní kámen
Start up a crack to the right of the NW edge. Up the crack to the right onto the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Jubilejní kámen
Up the NW edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Jubilejní kámen
From the start of Drážďanská cesta (Dresden Way) up the wall along cracks to the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Jubilejní kámen
Up a narrow chimney under the overhang, left over it to the edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Jubilejní kámen
Up the SE edge over the large and smaller hourglass to the backdrop. Jump across and up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Jubilejní kámen
Up a short crack and the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Jubilejní kámen
Up the left valley edge over K to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Jubilejní kámen
From the SE corner and chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Jubilejní kámen
Up the right valley edge over the hourglass and K to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Jubilejní kámen
Up the middle of the valley wall over K to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Jubilejní kámen
Up a crack in the middle of the E wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Jubilejní kámen
5m left of Labská cesta (Elbe Way) diagonally left up a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Jubilejní kámen
Left in the E wall to the right of the backdrop up the first crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Jubilejní kámen
Up the second crack in the E wall to the right of the backdrop, then higher up the wall… Rock Climbing
4-
Jubilejní kámen
Up the middle of the E wall through a fine crack, higher over the overhang to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Jubilejní kámen
Up the SE edge over K and higher over the hourglass to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Klec bláznů
From the adjacent block in the E wall through a fine crack to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Klec bláznů
From the labyrinth descend and traverse to the W edge. Along the grooves directly across… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Klec bláznů
From the slanted block under the wall, up a short edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Klec bláznů
From the gorge from the North, up the steps to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Jubilejní kámen
Up the V-edge or a crack to the left of the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Jubilejní kámen
Up the corner and chimney between the block and the tower, higher up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Jubilejní kámen
Up the chimney or left a crack in the upper wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Klec bláznů
On the right in the South face, into the hole and to K, and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Klec bláznů
On the right in the South face, up the corner, higher along the edge over K to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Klec bláznů
From the right part of the South face, diagonally left into an elongated hole and to K,… Rock Climbing
4+
Klec bláznů
From the interior of 'Labyrint' (Labyrinth), diagonally left up a crack and along the… Rock Climbing

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