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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+/7-
Lokomotiva s tendrem
To the right of Strak's chimney, through the wall from the block directly to the ledge to…
4-
Lokomotiva s tendrem
To the right of Strak's chimney, to the right to the ledge (chimney), along it to the…
5
Lokomotiva s tendrem
Through the thin crack (to the left of the Obkročák route), which widens later. to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Lokomotiva s tendrem
Through the wall into the lieback and along it to the large hourglass. Through the wall… Rock Climbing
6
Lokomotiva s tendrem
To the right of Strak's chimney, to the right through the E wall to the ledge.…
4+
Lokomotiva s tendrem
To the left of Strak's chimney, through the wide crack, later crack and wall to the right… Rock Climbing
3
Lokomotiva s tendrem
Through the left chimney in the NE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Lokomotiva s tendrem
Through the center of the wall, to the right of the Long vehicle route to the ring of the… Rock Climbing
6
Lokomotiva s tendrem
To the right of Strak's chimney, through the center of the wall to the ledge (sling on…
5+
Lokomotiva s tendrem
To the left of the Long vehicle route, overhanging wall to the ledge (hourglass). Through… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Lokomotiva s tendrem
Through the chimney from NE to the saddle and to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Lokomotiva s tendrem
Through the crack and later chimney in the NW wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Lokomotiva s tendrem
From SW through the chimney (hourglass) and transition to the SW edge. To the right, over… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Lokomotiva s tendrem
From Zrostlý kužel (Grown Cone) jump n. v. (new variant)
2+
Lokomotiva s tendrem
Through the chimney from SW to the saddle and to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Komenda
On the right in the upland wall along the fissure to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Komenda
Up the corner under the overhang and the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Komenda
On the left in the SW wall, up the crack to a step. Up the crack along the edge to the… Rock Climbing
6
Komenda
In the left part of the valley wall, up the corner, then up the edge past 2 bolts to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Komenda
In the valley wall, from the block directly up the wall to the horizontal ledge (clock).… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Komenda
At the NW corner to the right into the crack and up it to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Komenda
Up the crack in the middle of the SE wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Komenda
From the SW edge to the right into the crack and up it to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Komenda
To the right in the SW wall into the chimney and to the left to the ring. Along the edge… Rock Climbing
5+
Komenda
Start to the left of the East edge. From the block, up the wall to the edge and left to… Rock Climbing
6-
Komenda
Through the center of the SW wall to the rib (hourglass) and to the left to the ring.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Komenda
From the west block jump n. v.
2+
Komenda
From the uphill side through the center of the N wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Peruť
Through the center of the NE wall n. v. (uncertain) Rock Climbing
4+
Pilíř šovinistů
Downhill wall of the pillar over 2K n. t. Rock Climbing

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