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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Peruť
S edge n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Peruť
In the right part of the NE wall n. v. (uncertain) Rock Climbing
6-
Peruť
From NW through the crack (belay-loop) to the balcony and edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Peruť
Dissension and later SW wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Peruť
W edge n. v. (uncertain) Rock Climbing
2+
Peruť
Dissension between the massif and the E edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
UFC
In the left part of the downhill wall, through the corner n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
UFC
Overhanging downhill edge (hourglass) and over K, wall n. v. Rock Climbing
3
UFC
In the right part of the downhill wall, through the chimney and wall n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
UFC
Through the center of the downhill wall, over 2 K directly n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Tlustý kuchař
From the small pillar, traverse to the right through the West wall over K to the small…
4+
UFC
Along the right uphill edge and over the overhang n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
UFC
Through the middle of the uphill wall straight n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Tlustý kuchař
Through a system of cracks and fissures to Bh and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
UFC
Left upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing
2
UFC
Easily from the saddle n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Tlustý kuchař
To the right in the downhill wall, crack to the pillar and edge over K n. t.
5+
Tlustý kuchař
In the downhill wall, to the left, overhang, articulated rib to a shelf (rocking stone)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Tlustý kuchař
Crack in the right part of the wall, to the right, running away with a broken crack or NW… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Nevěsta a ženich
To the left of the N edge by a vertical and then sloping wall over 2 bh. to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5+
Trpaslice
SE edge to the balcony (2 rings) and to the top Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
2
Trpaslice
By the ledge in the S wall to the right to the balcony and directly to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
6
Nevěsta a ženich
On the left in the valley wall, by the wall to the crack and along it to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Overhang
5+
Trpaslice
East wall with cracks diagonally to the right to K. Crack diagonally to the right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Trpaslice
S wall under the rappel point to the right onto a block and by the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Trpaslice
SW edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Trpaslík
From the boulder step over to the SE edge and traverse to the right to the upper part of… Rock Climbing
4-
Trpaslík
Route Z crack into the hole, diagonally left onto the ledge and along it past the ring c.…
4-
Trpaslík
Wall into the hole, crack to the spike and to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Trpaslík
Along the upper edge of the wall to the kr. and n. v. Rock Climbing

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