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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Ukloněná
From W, up the wall over overgrown steps to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Továrník
From NE, to the right of the "Normal Route", over a small pillar n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Továrník
Start from the space between Zdenička and Továrník to the right of the route "valley… Rock Climbing
4-
Továrník
From the space between Zdenička and Továrník, by the left corner crack n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Továrník
On the left in the North wall, by a crack to K. Up the wall to the main summit. Rock Climbing
3
Továrník
From the space between Zdenička and Továrník, in the right part of the West wall, by a… Rock Climbing
5+
Továrník
From the overhanging edge to K. Up the wall to the balcony. Then up the wall by the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Továrník
From the space between Zdenička and Továrník, by the middle crack to the balcony, on the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Továrník
By the NW wall, through a hole into a recess and by that to the main (North) summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Továrník
In the left part of the South wall, via a crack n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Továrník
Right in the South face, from the slope up the wall and a crack to a balcony. Up the… Rock Climbing
4+
Továrník
Under the 2nd K of the route "Smycka z nouze" (Loop of Emergency), up a crack and a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Továrník
From the small ledge of the route "Smycka z nouze", along the ledge to the left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Továrník
In the middle of the South face to the 1st K. A small crack to a small ledge. Up an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Továrník
Right in the South face, up an oblique crack briefly to a step. Left to the 1st K. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Továrník
From SW, by overhanging corner crack higher up to the balcony edge. Through the center of… Rock Climbing
3
Továrník
Up the short NE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Továrník
Left in the NE face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Továrník
Right of the East crack under an overhang. From there left and a crack to a balcony. Up… Rock Climbing
4+
Továrník
From the large platform on the left of the East side, over a drop into a large hole. A… Rock Climbing
4-
Továrník
Up the exposed edge along a crack to a small balcony and over an overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Továrník
Right in the South face, up the edge of the adjacent pillar over a K to a large platform.… Rock Climbing
4+
Továrník
From the large platform on the East side, over a drop into the wall to a K. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Továrník
Left into the overhanging face. A crack to the left to a ledge and another crack to the… Rock Climbing
3
Červený masiv
A crack in the SW face to a ledge, up the wall under the overhang and over it to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Červený masiv
In the East face, a crack and a wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Zdenička
From the valley side, up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Zdenička
Northeast edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Soví věž
Right in the north face, over the overhanging crack to the large ledge to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Soví věž
Northwest edge to the ring and to the large ledge. Up the chimney to the 2nd ring and… Rock Climbing

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