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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Přeskok
Soví věž
From Owl, jump to the ledge near the edge. Rock Climbing
2+
Zdenička
From the upland side to the pillar, overhang and briefly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Zdenička
In the valley face of the sub-peak, from the corner, the left crack, higher up the face… Rock Climbing
5
Zdenička
Southeast face over the ledge to the sub-peak. Old route to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Soví věž
From the gully from the north, stemming and up the face to the large ledge. Up the face,… Rock Climbing
5+
Soví věž
To the right of the route Owl Hoot, over the roof-like overhang and crack to the 1st ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Soví věž
In the left part of the west face, along the edge to the crack and along it to the ledge.… Rock Climbing
4+
Soví věž
Wide crack in the left part of the west face to the balcony. Traverse right to the… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Soví věž
5+
Soví věž
From the boulder at the southeast edge, traverse the south face left to the ring.… Rock Climbing
5+
Soví věž
Crack in the right part of the west face to the ledge. Right around the edge into the… Rock Climbing
2+
Soví věž
From the upland side to the small balcony and up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Soví věž
Left upland path to the ledge. Straight up the edge to the next ledge and up the face to… Rock Climbing
3
Soví věž
From the upland side from the left to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Továrna
In the left half of the N wall over K to the large balcony. Further along the N crack n.… Rock Climbing
2+
Továrna
To the right of the Old Route, through the crack, up the wall and higher up by the edge n… Rock Climbing
5
Továrna
By the SW edge between the corners over K to the balcony. To the right, by the edge to… Rock Climbing
5
Továrna
Left in the N wall through the crack and overhanging wall over K to the large ledge. Up… Rock Climbing
2+
Továrna
To the right in the E wall by the chimney to the main summit. Rock Climbing
2
Továrna
Through the chimney in the middle of the N wall n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Továrna
Through the valley chimney to the large ledge. Up the wall by the edge to the W summit. Rock Climbing
3
Továrna
In the N wall, already in the left half, through the crack to the main summit Rock Climbing
3
Továrna
Through the corner in the right part of the N wall to the large ledge. Up the wall by the… Rock Climbing
4-
Továrna
Completely to the right in the N wall, through the corner hand crack to the large ledge… Rock Climbing
5+
Továrna
Left of the valley chimney, through the fissure to the 1st K. Traverse left to the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Továrna
Through the distinctive crack in the valley wall to its end. Up the wall and edge to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Továrna
To the right in the N wall, by the rib over K to the large ledge. Through the recess to… Rock Climbing
4+
Továrna
Left of the chimney in the N wall, through the corner crack, higher up the wall over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Továrna
Completely to the right in the S wall, up the wall to the pillar and transition to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Továrna
Through the right SW corner to the platform of the Old Route. That way n. v. Rock Climbing

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