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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Velká tovární věž
From the ring to the right through the crack into the hole and to the right to the 2nd… Rock Climbing
6-
Velká tovární věž
In the right part of the W wall, briefly up into the right crack and to the ring. To the… Rock Climbing
5+
Velká tovární věž
From the right into the narrow wall of the SW pillar, to the ring and through the chimney… Rock Climbing
4-
Velká tovární věž
Crack in the narrow S wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Velká tovární věž
Crack to the right of the S route to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Velká tovární věž
In the E wall, crack to the ledge. Double crack, higher crack to the balcony to the big… Rock Climbing
4+
Velká tovární věž
Crack to the right of the SE edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Velká tovární věž
Over the wedged block onto the bench and crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Velká tovární věž
To the left in the E wall, through the crack that widens into a chimney, to the left to… Rock Climbing
6-
Velká tovární věž
Via the S pillar to the balcony and crack to the 1st ring. Edge to the platform, traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Velká tovární věž
Via Písečná blecha to the ring. Directly through another ring to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Velká tovární věž
Narrow S edge and higher indentation to the left and under the summit wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Velká tovární věž
To the left of the E crack, through the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Velká tovární věž
Wall along the NE edge to the ring. Fading left through the crack to the balcony. Left… Rock Climbing
4+
Velká tovární věž
Crack to the bench of the Levá route. Left corner crack and then to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Velká tovární věž
Through the wall to the ring, traverse left and along the edge to the 2nd ring. Through… Rock Climbing
4+
Velká tovární věž
Crack from the ravine to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Velká tovární věž
Through a distinct corner crack to the saddle and over the wedged block to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Velká tovární věž
Up the NW edge over 2 rings and straight through the wall to the 2nd ring of the Fagot… Rock Climbing
6-
Velká tovární věž
Left of St. c. by the pillar to the 1st ring. Along the edge to the platform. Step left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Velká tovární věž
Through the chimney in the left part of the W wall, later through the inner wall to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Velká tovární věž
Left of the Old Route along the edge through holes to the 1st R. Through the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Velká tovární věž
Left of the "Fagot" route through the middle of the wall over 3R to the ledge (belay),… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Malá tovární věž
Up the SE edge over the overhang to the hole, straight along the edge over 3 bolts to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Malá tovární věž
Through the middle of the E wall over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Malá tovární věž
From the left into the crack in the E wall and along it to the St. c. balcony. Along it… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6-
Malá tovární věž
Up the SW edge to the ledge, traverse right to the center of the wall to the clock. Right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4+
Malá tovární věž
Overhang from the Factory Gate halfway up the tower into the S wall and to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Malá tovární věž
Through the crack in the left part of the E wall to the step in the SE edge. Traverse to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Tovární vrata

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