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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Vdova Bolteová
From the southeast edge to the right to the chimney in the east face. Climb the chimney… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Vdova Bolteová
Through the middle of the east face, over 2K a.s.l.
5
Vdova Bolteová
Climb the east face directly over the overhang, higher up the face to the ring. Like … Rock Climbing
2+
Vdova Bolteová
From the northeast, climb the sloping, overgrown slab to the corner. Climb the corner to… Rock Climbing
3
Vdova Bolteová
Climb the chimney in the right part of the north face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Vdova Bolteová
From the passage between 'Slabikář' and 'Vdova Bolteová' in the right part of the west… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Vdova Bolteová
From the summit of 'Slabikář' jump to the ledge to the left of 'Západní spára' (West… Rock Climbing
2+
Vdova Bolteová
Through the tunnel in the north face into the chimney and to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Vdova Bolteová
In the right part of the north face, climb the crack to a ledge. Climb the face over the… Rock Climbing
3
Vdova Bolteová
Below the summit of 'Slabikář' traverse into the face and to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Vdova Bolteová
Climb the wide chimney to the pre-summit of the tower and then along the pillars to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Vdova Bolteová
Climb the left south recess to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Vdova Bolteová
Climb the right south recess to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Slabikář
The route goes in the middle of the south face, to the left of the south crack. Climb the… Rock Climbing
5+
Slabikář
To the left of 'Prosincová bouře' (December Storm), climb the face (watches) over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Vdova Bolteová
Climb the southwest edge over the bellies to the ring. To the right along the edge to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Slabikář
By falling from Vdova Bolteová into the wall and up the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Slabikář
To the right of the SE edge, chimneying to its end and left to the edge. Up the crack to… Rock Climbing
2+
Slabikář
Climb the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Slabikář
To the left of the SE edge along the cracks into the corner and up it to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Slabikář
About three meters to the left of the start of the SE edge. Up the edge to the ledge and… Rock Climbing
4+
Slabikář
To the right of the south chimney, climb the face to a ledge and over the overhang to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Slabikář
On the right side of the south face, climb upwards and reach the summit via the internal… Rock Climbing
2+
Slabikář
Up the chimney in the center of the N face to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Slabikář
Start to the left of the St. c. route. Up the wall to the ledge to the ring and up the… Rock Climbing
5
Blázen
To the right of the St. c. route, up the smooth edge to the top. Rock Climbing Danger
4+
Slabikář
Up the chimney in the left part of the N face, later the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Slabikář
In the right part of the E face to the wide crack. Up the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Slabikář
In the left part of the N face, up a short crack to its end and left to the edge.… Rock Climbing
4-
Slabikář
Up the St. c. chimney and through the passage to the balcony in the W face. Up the… Rock Climbing

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