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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Balkánský pilíř
Via the western rounded edge over a bolt to the saddle and freely, n. v. Rock Climbing
?
Balkánský pilíř
Via the ferruginous corner to the terrace and then via steps, n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Balkánský pilíř
Start at the boulder and along the east edge (terrace) n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Balkánský pilíř
From the plateau side to the balcony.
4-
Balkánský pilíř
Via a wide crack to the saddle and then up the face, n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5+
Balkánský pilíř
On the left in the west face to a bolt, then along a rounded edge up the face to a saddle… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6
Parlamentní masiv
In the west face, start into a sloping crack and over two bolts, n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Parlamentní masiv
On the right in the south face, via an overhanging crack and rounded edge, n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Parlamentní masiv
Start in the NW gully over the block into the chimney. Up the chimney (sling in the notch… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Parlamentní masiv
On the left in the southern wall, small overhang to a ledge and crack-chimney to the… Rock Climbing
3
Parlamentní masiv
On the right in the western wall (near the boulder), crack to the clock and to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Parlamentní masiv
In the western wall, by an overhanging crack crossing a ledge, then an arched edge to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Parlamentní masiv
On the left in the southern wall, overhang to the ledge. Through the middle (bolt) into a… Rock Climbing
6-
Parlamentní masiv
Through the middle of the southern wall to the ring, over rounded ledges into the gully … Rock Climbing
4-
Zabíjačkový masív
By a chimneying between the "Grey Factory Block" and the "Zabijačka Massif" (SW face) to… Rock Climbing
5+
Tajná věžička
In the left part, wall to the overhang (bolt), over it and higher (2nd bolt) to the top. … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
5+
Tajná věžička
From the chimney, chimneying and right to the hanger. Edge over the bolt to the top.
6
Tajná věžička
In the middle of the massif, wall in the fall line of 2 bolts to the top (rappel). … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
2+
Zabíjačkový masív
Start from the gully (between the Grey Factory Block and the Zabijačka Massif). In the… Rock Climbing
4+
Zabíjačkový masív
In the left part of the wall, through the hole to the bolt. Slightly left, over the clock… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Zabíjačkový masív
To the left of the NW edge, from the boulder via 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Stínová hlava
On the left in the upper face to the "Shadow Wall", by a chimney to the balcony as in the…
3
Stínová hlava
In the right part of the southern face, by the chimney to the balcony, as in the "Old…
3
Stínová hlava
On the left in the eastern wall near the chimney to the balcony of the "South Chimney",…
3
Stínová hlava
On the left in the southern face, gully and wall to the Balcony. To the right to the…
3
Stínová hlava
On the right in the upper wall, by a crack rib to the balcony, as in the Old Route to the…
4+
Zabíjačkový masív
Start from the boulder diagonally to the right to the ring, then along the edge to the… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Šedý tovární blok
By jumping from the adjacent massif to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Šedý tovární blok
By the inner chimney to a ledge. Crack into the chimney and up it to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Šedý tovární blok
By the chimney from the upper side to the top. Rock Climbing

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