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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Šedý tovární blok
From the eastern side, along the right edge to a small balcony. Over the ring to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Šedý tovární blok
By a double crack and chimney to a ledge below the overhang (large clock on the left).… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Šedý tovární blok
Chimneying to 1st bolt. Directly up the wall to the 2nd bolt. Over the large clock to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Šedý tovární blok
By the right chimney to the foothills. To the right, along a receding rib to the ring.… Rock Climbing
5
Šedý tovární blok
Near the SW edge over the small overhang to the 1st K. Up the face to the 2nd K (clocks).… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Barevná stěna
Chimney in the W face to the ledge and along the edge (K) directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6
Šedý tovární blok
Slightly overhanging face over 2K to the balcony under the overhang. Over the overhang… Rock Climbing
6
Barevná stěna
Right of the route "South Cracks" to the summit. (uncertain) Rock Climbing
4+
Šedý tovární blok
Chimney under the small overhang to the 1st K. Slightly sloping blunt edge under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Šedý tovární blok
From the southern foothill by a system of cracks (ypsilon shape) to the ring. Up the face… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Kamil
Left of the corner up the south face over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Stínová stěna
Left in the N face diagonally left up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Stínová stěna
In the N face along the ledge to the right to the ring. Directly up the face to the… Rock Climbing
6
Stínová stěna
Up the narrow west face under the overhang. Over it slightly to the left, higher up along… Rock Climbing
4+
Kamil
From the right to the ledge in the W face and by a crack, later a fissure, to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Stínová stěna
Left up the N face to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Barevná stěna
In the left part of the wall along small cracks to the summit (loops) Rock Climbing
5+
Stínová palice
Center of the S face to the ledge, further up the face over the ring and the clocks to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Stínová stěna
Easily along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Stínová palice
From the gully between Stínovcem and Stínová palice by a crack to the balcony. Up the… Rock Climbing
5
Stínová palice
From the SE foothill diagonally left to the ring. Rock Climbing
4-
Stínová stěna
In the SW face traverse along the ledge to the W edge. Along the edge, later right up the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Stínová stěna
Along the right downward overhanging edge directly over 2K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5
Stínovec
From the south foothill to the east balcony. Traverse left to the W edge.
2+
Stínová palice
Easily along the NE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Stínovec
Directly along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Stínovec
Up the SW face with shallow grooves to the arch of the W edge. Upwards to the clocks,… Rock Climbing
4-
Stínovec
Chimney from the N to the foothill, to the wedged boulder and the N face to the W summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Stínovec
From the clocks traverse left into the N face, over the overhang to the saddle. By the…
5+
Stínovec
Right along the W edge via K to the sub-peak, step over to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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