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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Zkušební stěna
Crack to the ledge, right and another crack (protection) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Šedá věž
In the valley wall, a shallow crack to the ring. Upwards above the overhang to the 2nd… Rock Climbing
6
Šedá věž
Through the left part of the north face over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Šedá věž
Through the center of the south face over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Šedá věž
Valley NW edge over 2 Rs to the 1st R "VALLEY ROUTES" then diagonally left to the balcony… Rock Climbing
4+
Šedá věž
From the foreland near the north face, through its right part over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Šedá věž
Leap from the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Rómský masiv
From the terrace to the right onto the edge to the ring and through the crack along the… Rock Climbing
5
Rómský masiv
To the right of "Zkamenělé máslo" (Petrified Butter), behind the edge, through holes, a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Šedá věž
Descend from the massif onto the footbridge and fall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Rómský masiv
From the valley, through the center of the wall over 2 rings to the terrace. Freely to… Rock Climbing
4+
Rómský masiv
From the terrace to the left of the chimney, through the crack (Bh) and up the wall to… Rock Climbing
4+
Šedá věž
Through the chimney between the massif and the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Rómský masiv
At the end of the gully, through the narrowing (east) chimney over a small terrace n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Šotek
Valley-side wall through the hole to the ring, through a crack n. v (near the top) Rock Climbing
4+
Šotek
Valley-side SW edge over a K (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Šotek
NE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Rómský masiv
In the middle of the gully, through the chimney (block-massif) into the lieback to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Rómský masiv
In the valley-side wall to the left over 2 rings to the terrace, to the left to the 3rd… Rock Climbing
5+
Rómský masiv
Via Prima život na dávkách to the hole to the 2nd ring. From the hole to the right,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Rómský masiv
From the terrace to the left of the route "Gadžo a Šiksa" up the small wall over Bh to… Rock Climbing
2+
Šotek
Up the south edge to the balcony and from the left to the summit. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Čtyřhran
5
Čtyřhran
From the gorge between the massif and the tower, overhanging wall to the right onto the… Rock Climbing
3
Šotek
Left of the south edge, directly up the wall to the balcony.
6-
Čtyřhran
To the left of the valley route, by lieback to the ring. Up to the left onto the nose and… Rock Climbing
3
Šotek
From the plateau side, up the SW wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Čtyřhran
From the plateau side, from the massif by falling or jumping to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Čtyřhran
From the gorge on the plateau side to the ledge. Through the crack and higher up the… Rock Climbing
2+
Komáří stěna
Through the recess to the right of St. c. to the summit. Rock Climbing

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