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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Čtyřhran
In the left part of the base massif of the tower, along the edge of the pillar over 2Bh… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Čtyřhran
Through the crack to the place where the chimney narrows, then by opposition to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Čtyřhran
Over the overhanging SE edge to the bench and to the left to the ring. Through the wall… Rock Climbing
4+
Komáří stěna
In the left part of the N wall, up the wall of the pillar to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Komáří stěna
Up the hand crack to the right of the St. route to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Komáří stěna
Along the rounded NE edge, up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Komáří stěna
Up the corner from the terrace in the N wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Komáří stěna
To the right of the Narrow Crack, up a wider crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Komáří stěna
Up the narrow crack in the N wall (to the right of the Corner Route) to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Komáří stěna
From the gully to the left of "January Route", up the wall over 2 rings into the overhang… Rock Climbing
3
Komáří stěna
From the grassy platform in the N wall, traverse right and up the corner to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Komáří stěna
Up the right edge of the valley wall, over a ring to a ledge to the 2nd ring. Overhang to… Rock Climbing
4+
Komáří stěna
Up the overhanging crack to the right of the N crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Komáří stěna
In the valley wall, from the corner, follow the hand crack to a ledge. Diagonally left,… Rock Climbing
4+
Komáří stěna
From the gully in the SW wall, follow the crack to a ledge. Narrow crack to the ring and… Rock Climbing
2+
Komáří stěna
Up the chimney in the W corner to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Komáří stěna
To the left of the S chimney, up the wall and a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Komáří stěna
From the large corner, up the hollow to the right to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Komáří stěna
In the right part of the S wall next to the block along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Komáří stěna
Along the SE edge and a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Komáří stěna
Onto the balcony in the SW corner and to the right along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Komáří stěna
Up the chimney in the S wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Komáří stěna
Follow the crack to the right of the S chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Komáří stěna
In the right part of the wall, follow the crack and higher up to the left to another… Rock Climbing
4+
Komár
In the left part of the S wall, follow the crack, then over the overhang and into the… Rock Climbing
6
Komáří stěna
To the left of "Left Valley Route", ascend the wall over the overhang (1st bolt) and a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Komár
Crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Komár
In the left part of the S wall, follow the crack and to the right towards the ring. Edge… Rock Climbing
2
Komáří stěna
Up the right chimney between the buttress and the wall from the E to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Komáří stěna
Up the center of the E wall via a hollow to the top. Rock Climbing

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