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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Prďoch
Southwest face into a dirty crack and up to the sub-peak. Rightwards traverse to the… Rock Climbing
3
Prďoch
Southeast face, slightly overhanging crack Rock Climbing
3
Prďoch
East face, overhanging edge to the summit Rock Climbing
4-
Dvoumužský hrot
In the narrow south face, climb over the overhang, then as above.
3
Dvoumužský hrot
With the edge to the balcony, then as above.
4+
Jižní roh
In the right part of the face, by a crack, then higher up the face to the right n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Bratříček
NW edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Bratříček
Briefly from the uphill side Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Bratříček
In the left part of the valley face Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Bratříček
SE edge Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Jepice
Start from the Brother's Tower. Up the wall to the platform and up the slightly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Jepice
Up the SW pillar past the ring to the sloping ledge to the 2nd ring, up the edge of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Jepice
Start on the left in the west wall from the route "Toys or slaps" up the crack chimney n.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Jepice
Along the sloping corner opposite the Brother's Tower to its end and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Jepice
Start anywhere on the NW. Up the wall to the ledge (K), chimney or edge n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Věž Komářího údolí
Up the right descending rounded edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Věž Komářího údolí
Straight up the wall to the SE edge. Rock Climbing
5+
Věž Komářího údolí
In the left part of the west wall, upwards to the left to a short corner. Diagonally… Rock Climbing
4+
Věž Komářího údolí
Center of the descending wall into a large hole. Up the wall into the chimney and to the… Rock Climbing
5
Věž Komářího údolí
Left in the descending wall, over holes and along ledges to the balcony (birch tree). Up… Rock Climbing
2+
Věž Komářího údolí
By stemming between the tower and the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Věž Komářího údolí
Chimneying and up the V-shaped edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Moskyt
To the right of the chimney separating the Moskyt massif from the Komáří dolí tower, wall… Rock Climbing
4+
Moskyt
To the right of the SW edge, wall, later fissure to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Věž Komářího údolí
From the north, a jump from the massif Rock Climbing
4+
Věž Komářího údolí
Left of the chimney, up the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Věž Komářího údolí
Center of the V wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Strážce tělocvičny (Pekáč)
Downhill wall (ring) n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Strážce tělocvičny (Pekáč)
Right corner. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Moskyt
To the right of the ANTIDOT route, fissure n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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